Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Drag and street dont go well together. Usually whats awsome on the street is dissapointing on the strip.

Not to mention we all live in the land of defects now. My advise would be to build a streetable car, that looks stock, but blows away 97% of the competition.

The recipe is a very well trodden and proven one.

*HKS 2530's with HKS actuators

*HKS Split dump pipes

*Full 3inch (minimum) exhaust. dB requirements are different from state to state, but around 90dB is the limit, so a couple of mufflers or a silencer is advisable.

*Apexi Power Fc

*Boost controller (HKS, Blits Apexi etc)

*minimum 660cc injectors

*larger Bosch in-tank fuel pump

*Cam Gears (Os Giken, Tomei, JUN)

*Minimum twin plate clutch

*Either Twin Pod set-up or higher flow air filter. But I would recommend still using standar air box.

*Nismo or Z32 Air Flow Metres

*upgraded brake pads

You dont really need another intercooler. Standard GTR will flow ok. Dont really need cams either, but HKS step 1 are a direct bolt in option, so they are pretty good.

Thats what is a great street car, and with tuning and installation 15-20k is around the right figure (if you are buying brand new components)

This will net you around 320rwkw.

Any more and it internal time, bigger everything (turbo, injectors, clutch, gearbox etc) add another 20-30k (including labour, tuning etc)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35358-gtr-wat-to-do/#findComment-709105
Share on other sites

Drag and street dont go well together. Usually whats awsome on the street is dissapointing on the strip.

Not to mention we all live in the land of defects now. My advise would be to build a streetable car, that looks stock, but blows away 97% of the competition.  

The recipe is a very well trodden and proven one.

*HKS 2530's with HKS actuators

*HKS Split dump pipes

*Full 3inch (minimum) exhaust. dB requirements are different from state to state, but around 90dB is the limit, so a couple of mufflers or a silencer is advisable.

*Apexi Power Fc

*Boost controller (HKS, Blits Apexi etc)

*minimum 660cc injectors

*larger Bosch in-tank fuel pump

*Cam Gears (Os Giken, Tomei, JUN)

*Minimum twin plate clutch

*Either Twin Pod set-up or higher flow air filter. But I would recommend still using standar air box.

*Nismo or Z32 Air Flow Metres

*upgraded brake pads

You dont really need another intercooler. Standard GTR will flow ok. Dont really need cams either, but HKS step 1 are a direct bolt in option, so they are pretty good.

Thats what is a great street car, and with tuning and installation 15-20k is around the right figure (if you are buying brand new components)

This will net you around 320rwkw.

Any more and it internal time, bigger everything (turbo, injectors, clutch, gearbox etc) add another 20-30k (including labour, tuning etc)

I agree with everything except you definately need an intercooler min 100mm. Air flow meters are debateable, maybe a set of coils.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35358-gtr-wat-to-do/#findComment-709473
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...