Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A31 cefiro

engine

fully forged rb30, crank collar and refurb rb25det s2 oil pump with higher pres releif, atmo catch can with drain,54mm ally rad, mega ducting, r32 rb25de head with standard de cam's (uhh ohh :down:) rb26 valve springs and adj cam gears, mild port work by the looks of it, custom intake mani with q45 throttlebody, 3 inch pipe work, isc cooler core, 4inch intake, kn filter mild cai, ase high mount stainless twin scroll mani, 50mm progate, garrett twin scroll t04z 8.2 rear housing, 3inch dump pipe into pretty dodge 3inch straight pipe exhaust with one resi then under diff into a oval muffler at back (the slight angle's down the exhaust are just like slightlly angle cut straight pipe's welded up :down:) screamer angled threw front left wheel, sard 800cc ts injectors, standard rail, fpr and lines, walbro intake lift pump to 2lt surgey with 044 hardwired, haltech e11v2ecu with boost controler etc, genuine loom with split fire adapter harness for a31 onto splitfire coilpack's, bcpre7 0.8 copper plugs..

driveline

rb25 box with nismo g-max twin plate clutch, nismo solid short shifter with strengthened pivot ball rb25 modified tailshaft, (after a brand new one piece tore 25 holes threw my trans tunnel and spunn the previous gearboxes bellhousing on the block, very first track day on the very first lap. WORST DAY :rant: ) welded r180, 6 bolt shaft's.

356rwkw on 21psi, bp ultimate fuel, 750nm.limiter at 7600rpm, tuned by simon podlewski at morpowa SA.

iv seen fair few similar setup's running much better number's on lower boost.

like trewella slide fx ceffy makes 80hp more on 6psi less boost with near similar setup.

have semi plan's to clean up and port match both manifolds

oil restrictor's and camtech drop in 268* 9mm lift cam's. suggestions for different inlet exhaust cam degree's welcomed? :)

any critic's/advise on any of the setup or parts welcomed :)

cheer's alot tom

also its had a annoying as slight intermittent misfire for quite some time now, cant put finger on what it could be.

is their a way of testing for fluctuation of the cam angle sensor signal?

as iv heard its comon with belt harmonics etc on nissan cas to bounce around the timing.

my timing belt layout is a copy of the osgiken design and the timing belt when cold and blipping throttle the belt bounce's and slaps the top of the lower timing belt cover so i know the belt is quite loose and slappy/bouncey.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353821-critique-my-set-up/
Share on other sites

why did you sticky the thread?

560hp @ 15psi out of a T04Z? that sounds like a happy dyno.

Agreed, sounds like a wives tale.

Back on topic though, 21psi through a t04z on a 3l should be making a fairly comfortable 400kw....

car's been sitting for over a year fixing the tailshaft mishap so hasnt been used stuff all, but i do plan on tighening the belt up asap.

what would be symptom's of a cam gear skipping a tooth? without smashing valve's into pistons that is. lol

adam "borneo" trewella's cef is tuned over in wa by glen camble. not sure on the dyno they use, that was just an example of a similar setup.

also note his car is running a neo 25 head, state's its pushing 410rwkw on 17psi.

how badly do you think the standard 25de cam's and dodge 3inch exhaust would be chocking up my setup?

it's a fair drive to get it down on the dyno but i plan on asking him to drop the exhaust next time its on their.

so 21psi still isnt really into the efficiency range of the t04z?

cheers guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...