Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

This is a topic that hasnt been covered much for the guys upwards of 400kw that I could see.

Here's the issue;

On my GTR i have the ARC airbox with twin genuine ARC filters. Give it a squirt of full throttle and the filter gets sucked in to the actual airbox and all mangled up into a mess ($110 each, this gets tiresome quickly). It was funny the first time, but now its just plain old annoying.

This problem rose its head somewhere between 380 and 403rwkw, so im confident in saying that the limit of the (completely unmodified) ARC box is somewhere in there for at least my setup. Note; ARC dont seem to list a max HP/KW for this box

8db9c180.jpg

Now given that im past 403rwkw, something has to happen here as its annoying but not only that im sure its a big restriction on power if its strong enough to suck the filter in (which has allen keys on the filter bracket).

So far ive come up with;

1. Mod the ARC box with more bracing for the filters (not keen on that, its too nice as it is and the restriction will still be there)

2. Get a stock airbox and mod that but who knows how that will turn out

3. Something made from scratch using high flow commodore/falcon filters locally available and with huge surface area and filter braces

4. Use pod filters (no fkn way)

I know this thread wont apply to everyone just like the GT-RS on stroker motor thread, but id love to hear what anyone with a 400kw plus GTR has to say on the topic so please speak up :D

.....aaaaaaaand go!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353896-gtr-airboxes-for-large-hp/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Steve after looking at ur airbox yesterday its a pretty poor design how they have the top filter just sitting in there. It needs to have a lip underneath the filter not just on top. If u fitted an underside lip and also a thin t bar crossing underneath also it will fix ur issue and not create any flow restriction

My ARC airbox had exactly the same problem ..but i was using a K&N filter instead of an arc one, which i assume was slightly different in size.

My fix was just what DVS23R mentioned as well..i tigged a cross under the filter out of 3mm diameter stainless rod..problem fixed

Although now i have gone back to a modified factory airbox because i prefer the stock look.

3. Something made from scratch using high flow commodore/falcon filters locally available and with huge surface area and filter braces

FG XR8 Airbox and snorkel with K & N panel filter fitted to FG F6 turbo.

Good for tad over 500rwhp....maybe more. http://forum.rdpbris...ic.php?f=4&t=80

Given the long intake tract to the other side of the engine bay in a stock F6 I dare say it would be more efficient with shorter inlet tract in a GTR .

Also being plastic - less heat soak.

Can be modded to fit a pod filter inside.

I have one of these at home......so if you want dimensions just ask.

My 2 cents.

Edited by juggernaut1

or if your really adventurous ...the factory pod filter setup in the new Coyote supercharged Fords could possibly be made to fit?

http://www.caradvice.com.au/85953/fpv-gt-gt-e-gt-p-gs-supercharged-coyote-v8-review/

from the pictures that the first version of the arc box which ran the paper filters with the steel housing(no suck in).

the type 1 box and type 2 filters which dont have the support is what is happening with your box

the arc airbox can be modded fairly easily to stop that happening and wont cause any restrictions/flow loss.

Tangomatt - 410rwkw stock airbox, nismo intake

Aaron34 - 400rwkw stock airbox

:D

Was any back to back testing done to come to that decision? Genuine question I.e. Comparison with Greddy hard pipe kit?

Come to what decision? Those were the results.

As for comparo, perhaps @ some point on someone else's car. Can't say without question but then who can say they've tested every off-shelf airbox on the market? :)

Tangomatt - Using the Nismo intake kit going by the pictures (piping included). Just not 100% on the actual airbox itself.

Aaron34 - factory R34 GTR far as i know

Come to what decision? Those were the results.

As for comparo, perhaps @ some point on someone else's car. Can't say without question but then who can say they've tested every off-shelf airbox on the market? :)

Tangomatt - Using the Nismo intake kit going by the pictures (piping included). Just not 100% on the actual airbox itself.

Aaron34 - factory R34 GTR far as i know

The decision to use the standard airbox over a suction kit.

Not for every one just this... surely someone has done a power run make "x" KW then taken airbox off replaced it with pods or a full suction kit and made "y" KW?

I would be happy to use the OEM airbox with a Nismo snorkel and replacement AFM pipes knowing that it would not be a restiction.

well given the two cars do have some different items...

vcam, piping, snorkel... but are pretty much the same output... its a good representation.

also the airbox vs pod, maybe but how do you test that on a dyno with excessive heat soak that the airbox will not suffer from in bonnet down test over time. pod will always suffer :(

not running 400rwkw but when I tested the R32 GTR box back to back with Blitz pods at 280 rwkw I lost about 20 rwkw. put the box back in, took the lid off and taped the panel filter in and the power came back. not consistent with the experience of others and both tests were done with bonnet up, but it's a big difference either way. front of box is now modified but haven't done back to back test with it in that config.

Chopped part of the bottom of the 32GTR airbox out to get more flow, I was running only 363RWKW though.

Didn't like how small the single inlet at the front was. I was running 80mm Z32 MAFs on the stock box too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...