Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nismo FPR, SOLD

Q45 AFM, comes with hard to find that big Apexi filter and plug, PRICE DROP NOW $100 firm

Wheel spacers, were fitted to my R33, 1 pair 25mm and 1 pair 20mm, both come with nuts, SOLD

stainless 3 inch catless Exhaust, made by Exhaust technology to suit R33 2door, rear muffler comes off for track pipe, just needs a clamp or a weld and it's good to go, SA only too long to post, PRICE DROP $250 ono

Do you have any pics of the exhaust?

FOR SALE:

Gram Lights 57 Pro Maximum

hi guys selling these as they are no longer needed, no gutter rash, front tyres still have good rubber but back ones are stuffted due to camber wear,

these rims retail for 6k selling for half the price 3k or give me an offer.

size: 18 by 8 at the front 18 by 9 at the rears, offsets are +30 at the front and +35 at the rears i think

0424177447 for any details thanks

post-68972-1266218222_thumb.jpg

post-68972-1266218827_thumb.jpg

Edited by dienz123
hey guys got some stuff for sale.

r32 sedan side skirts, they are bomex brand, similar to factory sedan skirts.they are mint condish ready for primer $100pair

2x r32 gtr rims

2x r32 gtst rims. It makes a complete set, they have been powdercoated a metallic goldy yellow colour. have been balanced and roll great.

two tyres are brand spanking new supercat 225/50/16, other two have bout 75% TREAD left and are maxxis 225/50/16.

They sit great on all silvias and skylines and other 5x114.4mm cars.

Need these gone as i no longer have a car to put them on, after around $500 which is just what the tyres are worth.

rb25det s1 coilpacks good working condition want $100

rb25det s1 injectors in good working condiiton, pulled down ready to hi-flow, or put together and use, $50

arospeed cam gears adjustable, inlet and exhuast for rb motor ,they brand spanking new, $150

pm me

i live a victor harbor but stuff can be picked up from morphette vale or can organise dropping off.

thanks

the cam gears are sold, so are the side skirts.

Make an offer of any thing thats left needs to go...

post-40136-1266233079_thumb.jpg

post-40136-1266233109_thumb.jpg

post-40136-1266233137_thumb.jpg

post-40136-1266233168_thumb.jpg

post-40136-1266233190_thumb.jpg

Edited by CTRcustompanel

must sell:

R32 GTR stock coilpacks - exc. cond. - $100

R32 GTR stock radiator - very clean - $120 with shroud cover & radiator cap, new

R32 GTsT stock front rotors & brake lines, with used pads - $125

R32 GTsT sedan stock rear bench seat & seat belts - $50

R32 GTsT sedan rear wing - $25

FOR SALE: Apexi SAFC $200 (excellent condition)

FOR SALE: Unknown race fixed back bucket seat with rails $175 (bought but never fitted)

No pics of either at the moment.

PM me with interests

Sold my 32 a long time ago and have no use for these extra parts:

- Stock Dump & front pipes - $30

- 2x stock intercoolers $10 each

- Stock Nissan R32 Weather shields - $50

- Front strut brace (Jap, came direct from japan) - $80

- Passenger & centre aircon vents $150 for 2

Contact Andy on 0425008999

Hey guys.

got a few parts for sale

*Tein HA (height & damper adjustable) Coilovers to suit R33 in good condition SOLD

*Stock RB25det S2 Turbo in good condition SOLD

*Wheel Spacers, 2x 25mm & 2x 30mm $100 pair or $160 for both pairs

*Clarion KS-AX5602 Amplifier 2ch Bridgeable 800w Mosfet $150

*Speedlabs Remapped RB20 ECU to suit R33 w/ exhaust / fmic / 12psi $200

northern suburbs pick-up.

Call/SMS 0433 280 274

or email [email protected]

Edited by AFTDRK
nissan skyline r32 gts-t (WHITE)

1992

115,000kms, manual turbo,

tein coilovers,

speghetii madifold,

3inch HKS exhaust system,

HKS super seqesual blowie,

large front mount intercooler,

blitz turbo timer

turbosmart boost controller

blitz sleeping motor gauge

trust gearknob

Greddy swaybar

alarm and imobliser

heavy duty brass puk button clutch,

all 4 brake pads have just been replaced

stock rims with good tread left on them

setup for drifting

just been throught regency for ride height and all sweet now,

comes with 3 months fresh rego

stock parts also included and a have a spare set of r33 stockies aswell that il throw in.

all carpet has been taken out but i will put back in for the buyer if they wish

car runs like a dream any test welcomed starts up first time all the time

$9500 o.n.o

open to offers and swaps show me what u got but really after the money thanks

0424177447

here are some pics! wheels in foto also comes with the car $8500 FIRM

front bar has a few stone chips and a few marks could do with a respray other then that, all sweet

post-68972-1266313640_thumb.jpg

post-68972-1266313650_thumb.jpg

post-68972-1266313662_thumb.jpg

post-68972-1266313681_thumb.jpg

post-68972-1266313671_thumb.jpg

post-68972-1266313693_thumb.jpg

Water Methanol Cooling mist setup suit skyline r33 in excellent condition, kit is wired up ready to bolt in,

add 30rwkw to your current setup and keep it nice and cool!

$350

Includes the following:

Modified r33 skyline washer tank

R33 Cross over pipe drill and taped with injector fitted

BLACK 150 psi pump

3 meters high pressure hose

Brass fittings

World class brass checkvave rated at 600 PSI and over 300 F

Injector that installs from the OUTSIDE of the pipe

Injector holder

Relay

Relay Harness

Fuse

Fuse Holder

boost switch adjustable from 1-25 psi.

various electrical connectors

post-31991-1266319439_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
×
×
  • Create New...