Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

naa not 4inch flange, someone said that if you have a 3inch exhaust that i need a 4inch matrix..thats what i ment..does that sound about right?

and i think ill pass on the decat..id be f****d if i get caught haha.

on a side note fellas, if i were to buy a turbosmart boost tee and up the boost to 10psi would i need a boost controller to set it to 10psi or can it be done on a dyno without a boost controller?

http://www.venomexha...u/products.html

Going to buy a 500 series

4" inlet 5" body 100cpsi

250 inc delivery anywhere.

ZUT TUT TUT TUT TUT, basically.

woow you must have some series power..

is metal core better then steele?cheers

not a huge amount mate, just trying to minimise the restriction as much as possible.

Steel is a metal but I think you are asking if a metal cat is better then a traditional ceramic matrix.

most people believe that they are and alot of the literature seems to support it aswell.

if your going from factory exhaust to aftermarket with high flow cat. you will notice alot of difference in response. but if you already have an catback system then changing the cat won't do much. imo if i had $200-300 to spend. i'd get dump pipes + front. better bang for buck mod.

Edited by Mingy

if your going from factory exhaust to aftermarket with high flow cat. you will notice alot of difference in response. but if you already have an catback system then changing the cat won't do much. imo if i had $200-300 to spend. i'd get dump pipes + front. better bang for buck mod.

sorry for a stupid question but how does a dumb and fornt pipe help/work?and are they legal(sorry im a noob in cars)

cheers in advance

not a huge amount mate, just trying to minimise the restriction as much as possible.

Steel is a metal but I think you are asking if a metal cat is better then a traditional ceramic matrix.

most people believe that they are and alot of the literature seems to support it aswell.

ceramic is fine, but therefore if you do hit aground or your car is lowered, its better to have a metal cat.

also ceramic is alot cheaper to manufacture.

right so basically get a metal one?provided that money isnt an issue?

p.s if i were to buy a turbosmart boost tee and up the boost to 10psi would i need a boost controller to set it to 10psi or can it be done on a dyno without a boost controller?

on a side note fellas, if i were to buy a turbosmart boost tee and up the boost to 10psi would i need a boost controller to set it to 10psi or can it be done on a dyno without a boost controller?

the boost tee is the "controller". its pneumatic, it will regulate the boost. yes it should be set on a dyno if you would like it done properly. but more importantly, you will need an after market boost gauge, cos most stock ones are pretty rubbish.

the boost tee is the "controller". its pneumatic, it will regulate the boost. yes it should be set on a dyno if you would like it done properly. but more importantly, you will need an after market boost gauge, cos most stock ones are pretty rubbish.

ohh woops i ment do i need a boost gauge not controller haha im not that retarded. ok so i still need a boost gauge and get the boost set at a dyno..too easy thanks for that mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...