Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Pads Are Loose, They're Clunking And Squealing Already!

SargeRX8
 Share

Recommended Posts

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

I just bought a set of brake QFM HPX brake pads for my R33. Fitted them in etc. I havent done any hard braking at all and bedding them as per all other brakes(light braking, nothing too hard). The brakes are squealing like shit. I took the pads off and they seriously look glazed. My old brake pads did the same thing. I have no idea why this is happening. Could it be my rotors? Ive got slotted DBA rotors. My rotors with my old brake pads were like a mirror silver finish. Now they look like they got a rusty kind of colour.

Also when I'm reversing or rolling back, if I just tap tap tap the brakes I can hear the pads clunking. I examined them and there is a fair bit of play in them... What the f**k?

Help guys. If anyone is in Sydney I can show you my car or if anyone can suggest a place.

Are R33 GTR brakes bolt on to R33 GTST's?

R TUNE Mentor

R TUNE

Posted
Posted

Thier is a diffrence in gtst and gtr brakes (thinkness defently diamiter not shore.

when you bed them in how much pressure did you use, if you used light (i.e lown time to slow down) they probly didn't bed properly.

use about 1/2 to 2/3 pedal pressure from 80 -100km to about 30-40km/h. also were they locked in properly. i have seen my springs that hold the rods that go thew the pads com loose and rod start to work its way out.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Should I get my rotors machined and the brakes discs sanded then start bedding again? How long do I have to bed for? People say 100km, but is that 100km of braking or 100km of driving involving braking?

R TUNE Mentor

R TUNE

Posted
Posted (edited)

Probly not a bad idea to get them machined (did you do this when you put the new pads in, should always do this with new pads) about a 30 min drive should be enough to bed in brakes (about 10 aplercations of 100 ish to 40 ish to get them to work, then drive a bit not thrasing it tho. thats i used to do, do the bed in then drive for a bit.

Edited by R TUNE
SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted

How hard from 100 - 40? People say about 2/3 brake pedal. I'm gonna first see why the hell they are moving in the caliper. When I reverse and tap the brake I can hear them clunk clunk clunk. Only in reverse and I am sure its brake related as my old ones weren't doing that. Ill also get the brake pads shaved 1mm to remove any glazing which occured.

Dani Boi Grand Master

Dani Boi

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey all,

I just bought a set of brake QFM HPX brake pads for my R33. Fitted them in etc. I havent done any hard braking at all and bedding them as per all other brakes(light braking, nothing too hard). The brakes are squealing like shit. I took the pads off and they seriously look glazed. My old brake pads did the same thing. I have no idea why this is happening. Could it be my rotors? Ive got slotted DBA rotors. My rotors with my old brake pads were like a mirror silver finish. Now they look like they got a rusty kind of colour.

Also when I'm reversing or rolling back, if I just tap tap tap the brakes I can hear the pads clunking. I examined them and there is a fair bit of play in them... What the f**k?

Help guys. If anyone is in Sydney I can show you my car or if anyone can suggest a place.

Are R33 GTR brakes bolt on to R33 GTST's?

I put QFM hpx pads on my 33 with brand new rotors and have no squeeling problems, however, I do have the clunking sound when stopping in reverse. It happens when I reverse then put my foot on the brake then when you release the brake pedal you can hear them move. Not sure what's causing it as I'm positive I installed them correctly

Did you follow this for bedding in? http://www.rdabrakes...and-rotors.html

Edited by Dani Boi
Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

When I reverse and tap the brake I can hear them clunk clunk clunk. Only in reverse and I am sure its brake related as my old ones weren't doing that. Ill also get the brake pads shaved 1mm to remove any glazing which occured.

Did you re fit all the stainless corner shims on the tops of the pads when you put the new ones in? These stop the pads from clunking back & forth in the caliper.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...