Jump to content
SAU Community

Hid (Kaixen) Install S2 Stagea

wolverine

By wolverine,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

I decided to replace the relatively disappointing halogens in stagea, we were having ongoing issues with them.

I have used another guide from SAU to help with my install, here is the link to that guide. R34 GTR HID install DIY

As we all now compliance butchers the factory Xenon loom (unless you ask nicely) so first I needed to know what kit would suit the stagea.

The type of headlights are imprinted on the top the headlight body all you need is a torch or daylight to read them. They are listed as D2R with the highbeams being listed as H1. (note: there are three types of HID's D2R (reflector type) and D2S (projector type) and D2C (interchangeable with both).

I chose to support a forum sponsor in Kaixen for my kit. It was suggested I use a D2C kit from them which cost $195 kit price + $15 D2C wire.

The kit contains everything you need but some basic tools are required such as screwdrivers, a drill, a small hole saw and some spanners.

It would have helped if I documented and photographed everything in real time but I hope I have covered the key points and issues.

1. Disconnect and/or remove the battery and factory airbox, if you are comfortable working in tight spaces you can work around them.

2. Remove the plastic headlight cover by turning it anticlockwise, release the clips holding the globe and remove globe. Remove the compliance installed aluminium H1 retaining plate (mine was located with adhesive so a pull with a hook removed it).

IMG_3578.jpg

If you look inside you will notice that there are small locating cams for the D2R/D2C globe at the top globe opening.

3. Try to find a location inside your engine bay within reach of all cables by dummy fitting the ballast (amplifier box) using the supplied brackets, double sided tape and cable ties. I found suitable locations using existing bolts or engine bay fittings.

During dummy fitting I came across the first issue for this install. The D2C cable comes out at 90 degrees and this makes it very difficult to find a way to get the cable out to the ballasts. The recommended method is to drill a hole at the back of the headlight cover but the angle of the cable is too extreme for my liking. My solution was to use a diegrinder to cut a relief at the bottom of both headlights.

**note the location of the cable when connected to the globe and consider the effect on the function of the cover before deciding where you remove material**.

IMG_3571.jpgIMG_3565.jpg

Equally a drill bit could be used. Cutting in this manner necessitates resealing the hole with something like silicon. (more discussion at the end on neater solutions such as the H1 kit)

4. Attach the power cable supplied with spade terminals to the existing +ve terminal (attached to the globe) and -ve terminals (attached to the globe surround) inside the headlight. Thanks to the compliance guys for getting their reds and blacks back to front. :wacko:

5. Attach ballasts to the engine bay.

IMG_3568.jpgIMG_3569.jpg

6. Connect all cables to the ballasts.

7. Replace headlight cover, battery and airbox (if removed).

8. Turn lights on.

IMG_3573.jpg

9. Test height of lights and adjust with the factory adjusters for the comfort and consideration of your fellow motorist.

In terms of installation the Kaixen H1 kit (vs D2C used) would probably be easier to install as it would require a using a using a hole saw on the headlight covers and already has a rubber grommet on the looms to the ballasts to reseal the hole. There is a suggestion that the D2C globes are less likely to glare compared to the H1's but I am not sure one way or the other. Maybe someone with specific knowledge can clear this up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355373-hid-kaixen-install-s2-stagea/
Share on other sites
adey88 Collaborator

adey88

Posted
Posted

Nice write up wolverine, I installed a HID kit some time ago after compliance made a mess of my lights. I've never been happy with the install as I used a H1 kit and it does not sit in the aluminum Retaining plate properly...

You have motivated me to get the right bulbs (D2C) and rip out that crappy plate... Hopefully will have a set of decent lights soon!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...