Jump to content
SAU Community

Dry Sump Question

Super_Dude

By Super_Dude,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Super_Dude Enthusiast

Super_Dude

Posted
Posted

Hey, I've picked up a second hand dry sump kit for a Gtr but wanted the opinion of some guys who already have dry sumps installed.

The seller told me ue was running a vacuum regulator off one of the valve cover breathers. It is a 4 stage peterson pump running all three pick ups to the sump and a head drain to the pan. He said if you dont have a regualtor it will pull too much vacuum and the pistons wont get any oil (rb30, no squirters) This seems odd to me and you wouldnt think it would matter.

So, is anyone running vacuum regulators? How much vacuum do you run? If you dont then what did you do with the valve cover breathers?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355747-dry-sump-question/
Share on other sites
bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

I have seen the cam cover breathers just blocked off. It would make sense to run a regulator so you can set it to what you want.

BMYHOE are you using the Moroso dry sump tank and breather unit as well? It looks pretty compact.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

if you are scavaging from the covers it's probably not a bad idea to regulate the vacuum. they can suck pretty hard. hopefully a few others running dry sump RBs will chime in with their experience. but with it all set-up correctly blow-by will be practically zero.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

4 stage pump wont pull enough vacuum to create any dramas with wrist pin lubrication. I would be suprised if you pulled more then 10in/Hg with a totally sealed motor. Typically need atleast 15+ to have any small end lubrication issues. Which usually requires 5, 6 stage or higher pumps to pull that amount.

Weve run ours with and without a regulator and its made no difference.

Best way to check how much is to hook up a vacuum gauge whilst on the dyno and read what it pulls.

BMYHOE Proficient

BMYHOE

Posted
Posted

if you are scavaging from the covers it's probably not a bad idea to regulate the vacuum. they can suck pretty hard. hopefully a few others running dry sump RBs will chime in with their experience. but with it all set-up correctly blow-by will be practically zero.

so with no blowby does this mean a catch can is not needed? - i would still like to run the catch can cause i got everything to plumb it up. but if it will make more vaccum i obviously wont run it..

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

r33 racer has given the answer. it's as simple as hooking up a vacuum gauge on the dyno and see what it's pulling from the head. and he's given some figures to go by.

and yeah no need for catch tank. the oil system is working properly and scavenging oil and vapour from the crankcase which comes out the 'breather' with the oil returning to the system.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

You still run a breather can from your oil tank otherwise you may have some oil vapour spitting out of the breather line. If you do overfill the oil tank and system you will definitely get some oil spitting out that breather until it finds an equilibrium.

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

the whole point of a dry sump is to eliminate oil surge issues. so if plumbed up normally its a set and forget affair.

the only extra thing i would install is an electric gear pump plumbed into the oil feed so it cuts in if the belt breaks or for pre-oiling before start up.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

You can run an accumulator if you want. It shouldnt be needed, but it does work well for pre oiling and incase something does go wrong you have some limited back up.

In terms of sealing the motor up, its just a matter of making sure any holes are bunged off and everything is siliconed up well with a good sealant.

The only other trick I would recommend is to get two machined discs to go either side of the pump pulley so the belt cant slip off. Also ensure there is something similiar on the crank drive side too. We lost a motor due to the belt coming off at the track when I ran off and some small twigs and stones got up and decided to lodge themselves between the pulley and belt.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

The only other trick I would recommend is to get two machined discs to go either side of the pump pulley so the belt cant slip off. Also ensure there is something similiar on the crank drive side too. We lost a motor due to the belt coming off at the track when I ran off and some small twigs and stones got up and decided to lodge themselves between the pulley and belt.

Do you ever use an "auto-shut down" or a limp mode when you get no oil pressure?

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

We have a limp home setup with the autronic if oil pressure isnt within certain parameters it will limit revs to idle only but no shut down. A shut down would be better as it might even save the motor if those conditions come about.

  • 2 months later...
Walk510 Enthusiast

Walk510

Posted
Posted

at the moment i'm talking to dailey engineering about building dry sump pan system for rb30 RWD with the pump attached so there's only 3 lines coming off it scavange to tank pressure to pump and pressure to engine and the pan is billet have a look at the vq35 pans also had a chat to ati about building a balancer with a 60 minus 2 crank trigger in it too

http://www.daileyengineering.com/vq_35.htm

and the regulators you were talking about i believe the race v8's run as much vacuum as possible for more HP

http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/engine_breath.html

on my mate's 25/30 we run a 3 stage peterson pump and plumb the cam covers back to the tank with no restriction

in 3 years only problem we had was when the turbo died and we had no screens on the scavenge and the pump ate the ball bearings destroying the rotors $160 later and all fixed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...