Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea 260Rs

THRLLR

By THRLLR,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

THRLLR Community Regular

THRLLR

Posted
Posted

:cool:Hi All,

I am looking at buying a 1997 series 1 Stagea 260rs with 100,100kms on the clock. I believe it runs R33 GTR running gear. I got the car inspected and almost all the results came back good. It was misfiring on one cylinder and the inspector said that it was probably either the plugs and/or coilpacks. He advised me to get the engine comp tested to make sure.

Unfortunately i dont know if the comp test was done warm or cold,

but i would like to know if these results are ok?

Are they acceptable considering the age and number of kms on the engine?

Results:

C1: 145

C2: 145

C3: 150

C4: 150

C5: 150

C6: 145

It seems that they've also put in Platinum plugs into the engine when the comp test was done. I dont know if the plugs were put in prior to the test or after. Actually i dont know what brand they've used either.

Can someone tell me what are acceptable/average comp test results for R33 GTR engine both Cold and Hot, pls??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356393-stagea-260rs/
Share on other sites
SMOKEYV35 Mentor

SMOKEYV35

Posted
Posted

should be around 160psi and no higher than 170psi across all cylinders.

should also be done with the engine warm.

so if it was done warm - then its slightly down but not anything to worry about. if done cold, then its probably right on.

one thing to note is that there is no large discrepencies across the cylinders either which suggests decent health.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356393-stagea-260rs/#findComment-5702865
Share on other sites
numleg Community Regular

numleg

Posted
Posted

145 to 150 is fine. With an engine that old as long as its not way low (sub 130) all you want is even numbers.

Yes an Autech 260RS is an R33 GTR with a really fat ass. Engine, drive train and suspension are all R33.

So far the only real issue i've had using R33 parts is that i found the location of the power steering fluid reservoir is on the strut tower rather than the rad support.

It got pretty tight when fitting the Greddy suction kit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356393-stagea-260rs/#findComment-5706388
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • PranK
      2001 R34DE

      By PranK · Posted

      Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...