Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hoping someone can shed some light on how the rears of these go together...

Ive got 2 full sets of circlip height adjustable shocks, Koni Yellows and a set of Agreves....

The fronts no issue...the rears im confused about how they go together...

The Konis came with 2 flat nuts for securing the top hat...I didnt click to start with as to why they came with 2 nuts and originally used 1 nylon nut, mounted the strut up in the caronly to realise that the shock was not working and the car was just bouncing around on the spring....pulled them apart and after some thought, I put one flat nut under the top hat and another nut on top, locking it in place...job done...seemed to work fine beside bottoming out due to it being too low on the lowest circlip setting...

My question is, why do these aftermarket shocks require a nut either side of the factory top hat? I just cannot figure it out, ive used these same springs with factory strut/shocks and not had a problem...

Hoping someone can shed some light on this!!!

Anyone got any ideas, ive spoken to my mechanic and even he cant explain it...just doesnt make sense...they are, in theory, a direct replacement using the factory top hats so im lost as to what could be causing this to happen...

I tried the Agreves in there yesterday and it did the same thing...assembled the spring/shock, all seemed fine, spring was held in place nicely, fitted the spring/shock assembly up to the car, lowered it down and bounced it around...you can see the shaft of the shock moving up through the top hat? Why? The factory setup only has one nut on top!

You need to secure the shaft of the shock absorber to the mount. To do so you can either bolt it top & bottom or use a collar underneath & a nut on top.

As to why - the shock will have gas pressure in it which extends the shaft. So when you push down on the car without the shaft being secured the spring compresses & the shaft doesn't. Hence the shock doesnt function.

Edited by djr81

Cheers mate, so the factory assemblies have a collar? From inspection, they dont?

As I posted up top, we used the 2 nut method on the Konis and they work fine, as or the other set, well, theres not enough threaded section to use a nut either side of the top hat as well as the rubber bush and washer required on the top side...where would the collar secure to?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...