Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive got

hsd fully adjustable coilovers

work 17x8 with bridgestone potanza re01r 235/45/17 front and

17x9 with nexen roadstone 255/40zr/17

cheap rears but they wont last long anyway

305hp atw now on 14psi

chasing 300kw atw

Edited by hooray

Well take about 6% off your power everywhere because they added SAE correction (which ALLSTAR don't usually apply to RWD cars but I'll assume they did it on your graph because you asked for 400hp)... So that's about 380rwhp, then from a hub dyno you loose around 7% on top of that to a roller dyno dynamics so you are down to 355rwhp. So the same power as say a HKS GTRS on the same boost!

Next we will talk about boost response, well it's not really that bad considering the size of the wheels of the turbo (the 0.63 rear housing is helping a lot it seems). About the same as a T67 or a GT3076R 0.82 rear, mind they make about 430rwhp on the same dyno without correction on so the same response as yours but around 50hp more top end!

If you want to compare with my setup I make pretty much exactly the same power till 4000rpm and then a extra 150hp top end (mind you I cheat a little) :)

So in essence you have a turbo that makes the same power as a HKS GTRS with over 1000rpm less response or a turbo that has the same response as a GT3076R but with 50hp less top end...

CRAP!

I agree with what u have said but my safe tune is 18psi for a turbo that should be running 20 to 26 psi. I chose a .63 as I been in .82 and was a touch laggy for my liking. In future I will change to a .82 with more boost and aim for big hp.

I agree with what u have said but my safe tune is 18psi for a turbo that should be running 20 to 26 psi. I chose a .63 as I been in .82 and was a touch laggy for my liking. In future I will change to a .82 with more boost and aim for big hp.

fair enough but ideally you should be running a smaller gt30 with a larger (1.06) rear housing to get the same sort of power with better response and less stress on the engine (those .63 housings arent great for cylinder scavenging and temps). it'd also come on boost much smoother than the .63 gt35, making it much easier to control wheelspin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
    • The fact that US/JDM plates actually fit the skyline bumpers properly is a big, big thing for me as they are the correct dimensions. Annoyingly you can't opt for a normal plate (or plate combination) in that size. You have to make up your own one, and at that point you'd still know it wasn't randomly assigned. 
    • Well, really, that's any ECU, because it's not so much the ECU that the tuner connects to, but a laptop that's connected to the ECU. You have to have the tuning software installed locally. The "remote" part is essentially just remote desktop (RDP) or VNC type access. Nevertheless, if you're looking to upgrade, then you're immediately in the Haltech/Link territory, both of which can be done by any number of competent tuners here in Oz. But without a dyno, you'll definitely also need a wideband O2 sensor fitted, and you'll probably be relying on "auto" tuning a bit, where you drive it around under various loads and then apply the corrections that the ECU learns (basically applying the fuel trims that the ECU has to do to correct the mixtures). Tuning the timing is a little harder. It can be difficult to trust the old OEM knock sensors on RBs, so it is definitely best to have someone who knows what they're listening for, with knock ears (a piezo microphone connected to the engine, and and little amp and headphones so the listener can hear the angry men with hammers who live in the engine). That is more difficult to do remotely, and I suspect the only sane way is to be quite conservative on timing. But that's OK. You're probably waaaaay better off with conservative timing where you are. What is the fuel situation? 98RON available? Or low grade jungle juice?
    • I see your point, I didn't think too deep into it, was purely focused on the price. There's no bad blood between myself and GSM, they acknowledged the price was cheaper else where and at the time couldn't match it. 
×
×
  • Create New...