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Car Idles Fine. But Chokes And Stalls When Try To Drive?

Ben M

By Ben M,
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Ben M Apprentice

Ben M

Posted
Posted

so i drove my car from work to a mates place, drove fine, turned it off. turned it back on about half an hour later, idled fine, drove out the driveway, gave it a bit of a squirt, came to an intersection and went to pull out and it started to choke and had absolutely no power and just died. i turned it back on and it was idling between 200-1500rpm going up and down. roll started it and drove it down the road, seemed to drive alright down the hill, then when i came to an uphill it died as i started to drive up the hill. its always had a problem doing hill starts due to what i think is a leaking injector. also im not running a tps cause its got an rb25 engine harness for some reason. but usually if im already rolling when i come to a hill its fine.

im going to swap over to the rb20 harness, and put some new injectors in it. just wondering if there's anything else i should check. cause it drove fine from work, only after i went to drive it again it shat itself.

:( hate cars!

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

OMG benm has an impostor!

I would start by looking for a boost leak, especially if it is not idling properly. there are lots of vacuum hoses and a single split could cause an issue.

StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted

so i drove my car from work to a mates place, drove fine, turned it off. turned it back on about half an hour later, idled fine, drove out the driveway, gave it a bit of a squirt, came to an intersection and went to pull out and it started to choke and had absolutely no power and just died. i turned it back on and it was idling between 200-1500rpm going up and down. roll started it and drove it down the road, seemed to drive alright down the hill, then when i came to an uphill it died as i started to drive up the hill. its always had a problem doing hill starts due to what i think is a leaking injector. also im not running a tps cause its got an rb25 engine harness for some reason. but usually if im already rolling when i come to a hill its fine.

im going to swap over to the rb20 harness, and put some new injectors in it. just wondering if there's anything else i should check. cause it drove fine from work, only after i went to drive it again it shat itself.

:( hate cars!

Wut?? what good would an RB20 harness do? Why doesn't it have a CAS?

+1 for intercooler piping leak.

r32silvergts Enthusiast

r32silvergts

Posted
Posted

Afm dude had same problem idal hunting like crazy no power then al of a sudden all is fine untill it does it again . Mine also would hit like a miss that sounded a bit like a rev limited at about 4,xxx rpm. My idal was between 800-1500 and would go up then like stall then Kik up then drop so annoying but Afm was my problem. Try throttle body cleaner or some sort of contact cleaner . Or replace also check Afm plug

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

It happened just after

...gave it a bit of a squirt...

didn't it?

You have a significant air leak after the AFM and before the throttle body. Probably popped an intercooler piping connection.

StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted

well the rb20 harness may be useful as i have an rb20? and i need the tps (throttle position sensor) as it controls alot of things.

could a leak pop up that quick?

In an R33?

Ben M Apprentice

Ben M

Posted
  • Author
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i pulled the pod off, fully covered the afm and it didnt even try to die. just kept idling away fine. managed to narrow the leak down to somewhere between the afm and turbo outlet. pulled all the piping off and no splits or anything. so i have no idea where it could be coming from? also for a while it would idle like shit, going between 200-1500. then when i unplugged the afm it idled smooth and consistant?

turael Enthusiast

turael

Posted
Posted

Blowing smoke at all?

Grab a multimeter and check your AFM. The Nissan FSM has the instructions - you just check the signal pin on the afm to earth (engine/body) to see what voltage its reading. 0.3v ign on but not running, and something like 1 or 1.1v while running. Easy peasy and will rule that out.

Next find your consult plug in the drivers kick panel / fusebox area, and do the ecu self diagnostics. again, instructions in FSM. This will give you some flashes on the dash to tell you what the ECU reckons is wrong. Match the flashes up to the chart in the FSM and go from there.

If there is no flashes, then it's probably an air leak.

You have a compressor and an airgun?

Take your air filter off and use duct tape or something to seal up the end, unplug a vac hose in the intake system (before throttle body), and shove the air gun in there and let er rip. You could also rig up a tyre valve to do it with a tyre inflator but that's more effort.

Anyway you'll want a friend to help you find the air leak. try wetting your palm and holding it around the joins of the IC pipework. also with the engine off and intake pressurised, you will likely just plain hear it hissing out.

I think the last thing could be a borked IACV thing - maybe its jammed open/closed or something, don't know too much about how that works whistling.gif

180JDM Community Regular

180JDM

Posted
Posted

unplug the AFM when the car is running, if the engine is still running then it could be AFM....car is meant to die straight away when unplugged.

Also because you gave the car a squirt you could of blow a piping off or a slightly came off....normally when IC piping comes off you will know about it lol gives a big bang

Ben M Apprentice

Ben M

Posted
  • Author
Posted

it could possibly be my air flow meter? although i've got two different ones and i've tried them both and nothing changes, and i wouldnt have thought they'd both be rooted. just after it happened my car was idling really weird, so i unplugged my afm and it started idling fine, then plugged it back in and it died. its at the mechanics now. they're going to go over everything, flush out the fuel rail, check injectors and replace o-rings.

i took off every single bit of piping and no leaks or cracks in the piping or joiners. all manifold bolts are fine and not warped. its currently not running a tps but the plug is in place, just needs wiring up.

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