Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone Here Kart

Paragon

By Paragon,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

Paragon Proficient

Paragon

Posted
Posted

Just getting into Rotax racing, wondering if any of you guys are already out there with www.canberrakarts.com.au

Its great for competitive people as its a sport where you can actually race other people rather than doing trackdays where you don't race anyone other than yourself.

I found after doing track days, the costs were adding up to.

A new set of slicks for the kart is $250 compared to $500 a tyre for RE55s.

Brake pads are less than $50 compared to $600 for a set for the car and everything tends to last longer too.

And the main thing in karting is everyone all has the same gear, so its a real chance to test your driving skills against others.

Hope to see some of you out there!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356959-anyone-here-kart/
Share on other sites
Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

I'd considered it, but it's a bit too much of a dedication for me. There as a dude here trying to get rid of all his karting gear for around the $6k mark I believe (inc trailer) which looked pretty amazing since it should get you straight into your first race...but the time would just be too much on the side :(

a20089 Veteran

a20089

Posted
Posted

I found after doing track days, the costs were adding up to.

A new set of slicks for the kart is $250 compared to $500 a tyre for RE55s.

Brake pads are less than $50 compared to $600 for a set for the car and everything tends to last longer too.

Get the Federal tyres for a good cheap alternative to RE55's, and my full race brake pads I imported from America at half the cost locally. You can make a lot of savings if you try.

Saying that any smaller vehicle is far cheaper to run and less damaging to components. I run a stock motorbike that apart from fuel has never cost me anything to repair or replace doing multiple track days.

Only advange to the car and bike over a cart is I can drive them to the race track and drive them back, and they have a much broader market when I want to sell them.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Only thing with running the federal RSR's is that you are instantly 2 secs a lap slower over RE55's even more so if you run AO50's or DZ03's.

A mate of mine was QLD u16's cart champ a few years back....carting is all about budget/the best equipment, he went from mid pack with a cheaper cart, then bought the best cart avaliable and blitzed the field everyrace without trying.

So its cheaper if you wanna go have fun, but if you want to win it gets just as expensive as running a car at supersprint days.

Which is why I never bought a cart when I had the chance.

Not saying dont do it, because its awesome fun.

a20089 Veteran

a20089

Posted
Posted

Only thing with running the federal RSR's is that you are instantly 2 secs a lap slower over RE55's even more so if you run AO50's or DZ03's.

Never.... :) That would put me in the same time bracket as Dennis in Duncan's full race car. With Dunacan only a second and a half faster again. http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results.cgi?05/03/2011.WAKE.S6.Y

With Slicks I could probably pick up 2 seconds, but you seem to be saying upgrading the RSR's to real semi slicks will gain about 3 seconds. That's like saying my mostly stock GTR is as fast as the best SAUNSW car around Wakefield.

I'd love to say you are correct, but I'm not that good.

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

It's a fantastic sport and you'll have a blast mate.

Karting forums often mention that if you're going a bit slow it's a problem with the spacer. Spacer refers to the item between the steering wheel and the seat, ie: the driver. It is true that if you buy a brand new chassis and engine you'll have an advantage, but it is mostly driver skill. I'm sure lewis hamilton could get in a kart 10 years older than the field and blitz them, at sub world class anyways. Setup also makes a big difference, by changing to the correct jet you can save a full second a lap.

But instead of spending the best part of 10k on new parts, you can buy a kart plus engine for 2500 and go. Mine is for sale for 5k ono now, and i really regret leaving the sport. Unfortunately I can't afford it atm, I couldn't afford to keep the r34 either.

One more point, if you exchange some paint on a track day it's a big pain. If you do it in a kart it's just normal racing. There are no fancy paint jobs to scratch or delicate panels to bend. I've seen some fairly high speed crashes (maybe 80km/h backwards into the tyre wall) where the person dragged his kart back onto the track and started up again, kart un-damaged.

I look forward to the day I get back into it, but at the moment I'm just trying to get enough money together to last this year at uni, so I can get out and earn some money!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...