Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car seems to be having some serious issues here

Was driving to the drags one evening and it suddenly just stopped working

(thank god it didnt happen on the drag strip)

It refused to start even when my friend helped me to jump start it

Towed it to the workshop and they told me they had spark but the injectors seems to be flooding the engine and the only thing they could think of is the ECU is ****ed. The workshop is going to be closed for the weekend so they said they'll test the ECU on monday

Recently before the incident Ive been having problems starting the car

sometimes I had to put some gas into it before it would crank over

and also a few days before I had a bosch 910 installed without a FPR

and exhaust cam gear set to 4Deg retard

So any ideas?

just incase it maters my car is a 1996 R33 Series II Auto

Here's the list of mods I currently have

S-AFCII

Profec B boost controller

Bosch 910 (no FPR)

HKS Exhaust Cam gear

Trust Cat-back

SS high flow cat

Front pipe

Trust V-SPL intercooler

Apexi Air Filter

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35704-engine-flooding-problem/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I dont think you need a FPR...

Could be stuffed injector stuck open... be carely that you havent filled you cylinder/s with fuel and may have compression locked your motor .... pull the dip stick out and check to see if it smells like fuel??? It s not a common thing - but it does happen, trust me ;-<

Dan

Pump the throttle???

1. efi cars are ment to be started with the foot off of the throttle

2. would pumping the throttle actually do anything?? - its not like an old carby that opens up secondary squirters when pumped.

3. when you said you had a pump installed without a FPR, do you mean you removed the standatd/afrermarket FPR on the fuel reguator? if so why??

4. This may not explain why it flooded, but it indicates a few problems.

well it wont start with or without throttle

and the standard FPR is still there

When I installed the fuel pump my workshop said it might blow the standard FPR because of overpressure. How does that make sense? doesnt the FPR control the pressure?

IMACUL8:

checked out that possibility as well but its not compression lock

but havent checked the injectors though

If the engine is "flooded", you need to try and start with the "pedal to the metal" - this is to allow as much air as possible in to help ignite the fuel. DO NOT pump the throttle - that only adds "acceleration" fuel, and worsens the situation.

If the CAS was crook, you would not have spark.

I have been running the standard FPR in my 32 with a Bosch pump, and no problems encountered for nearly 2 years.

Can you hear the injectors working when trying to start the engine?

You are probably going to have to pull the injectors, so arrange to get them cleaned while they are out.

  • 2 weeks later...

BACK ON THE ROAD!

turns out the CAS was electronically alive but mechanically dead!

and the little stick at the end of the cam shaft had snapped

oh well got HKS 256 in there now

when the engine is warm the cams are kinna noisy

is this normal?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hmmm, what do you mean by getting weaker? And where did you get that test done? I've been wondering about my battery because the cold starts crank super slowly. The voltage is fine. Not sure if cranking amps can be checked at home. Battery is 4+ years old.
    • No. The simplest wastegate hookup, with no solenoid or other form of "boost control" (ie, control over your boost control, if you know what I mean) is a single hose, direct from the turbo outlet/hot pipe, straight and only to the wastegate actuator. It is that pressure signal that drives the wastegate to open, providing the boost control (and by "boost control" here, I mean, limiting how high it can go, which is essentially the spring pressure of the actuator). You only end up with tee pieces and alternate flow paths once you start adding things to the boost control system to allow you to determine how much of that boost signal makes it to the actuator. There are so many ways to do that that there is no single way to run the hoses and tees and the like. If you have a stock boost solenoid, then all it does is either allow all the boost signal to go to the actuator, or open up to allow some of it to bleed off. There needs to be a restriction in that bleeder to allow only a small amount to bleed off. And in a stock system, that would then be plumbed back to the turbo inlet (for "emissions control" reasons). That is actually what that nipple on your BOV return pipe could/would be for. If you have an aftermarket boost controller and solenoid, then the above is mostly true, but there is no need for a restrictor in the bleed, because the solenoid is pulse width modulated to create a variable bleed off. The air that escapes from the bleed can either be vented, or also returned to the turbo inlet. For emissions reasons it should be returned to inlet, but the amount of air being vented is so small that it really doesn't matter (either from an emissions perspective, or from an air-fuel ratio affecting perspective).
    • And other times you just need to go buy bigger injectors?
    • Yup. I actually just blew my turbo. LOL.  should have checked this thread before today. i also have no boost solenoid. so it should be...one line from wastegate to turbo inlet, and a T somewhere in that line that connects to the wastegate return pipe?
    • It's recommended, however I can assure you a good amount of people don't bother. FWIW, the OEM battery lasted 4.5 years and I changed it prematurely too, I reckon could have stretched it to 5 years.
×
×
  • Create New...