Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

fair cop, the only worry i would have with cutting a bar up would be the strength it would lose, but in saying that, i have seen some interesting things done, like putting a bar across to give the strength back

been trying to talk the misses into justifying a set of splitfire coil packs, but she keeps asking "what is the benefits to them, i don't want to spend $600 + on something thats not going to do much", so i'm just wanting to get some info to tell her and let me spend the money, i have heard that they are a good idea to get but thats about it.

only necessary if your old ones are cactus man, and ive heard good things about the cheaper variations anyways.

Either way new coilpacks are gonna be better than your 15-20 yr old ones :) more cleaner spark, and technically more power....but very minimal. if anything it will fix slight stutters or hesitations...or whatever small issue your R33 has :whistling:thinking about a set for mine too. as its starting to break down after 4k rpm in cold night air (sometimes)

been trying to talk the misses into justifying a set of splitfire coil packs, but she keeps asking "what is the benefits to them, i don't want to spend $600 + on something thats not going to do much", so i'm just wanting to get some info to tell her and let me spend the money, i have heard that they are a good idea to get but thats about it.

Yellow Jacket coil packs are just as good and cheaper too, spend your money wisely what sort of power are you chasing and how do you want the car to perform? We can help with suggestions a lot more if we know what te end goal is.

for example I have:

1998 R34GTT

yellow jacket coilpacks

power fc

full 3" exhaust

return flow FMIC

hks mushroom pod intake

.8mm gapped plugs

Dyno tuned to make 210 rwkw's

chasing: 230 rwkw's

Plans to get there:

replace FMIC with a hybrid one and retune (4.5 psi drop in cooler atm)

Edited by RandomHero83

Yellow Jacket coil packs are just as good and cheaper too, spend your money wisely what sort of power are you chasing and how do you want the car to perform? We can help with suggestions a lot more if we know what te end goal is.

for example I have:

1998 R34GTT

yellow jacket coilpacks

power fc

full 3" exhaust

return flow FMIC

hks mushroom pod intake

.8mm gapped plugs

Dyno tuned to make 210 rwkw's

chasing: 230 rwkw's

Plans to get there:

replace FMIC with a hybrid one and retune (4.5 psi drop in cooler atm)

Are you still running the standard turbo?

AND what are you doing with your old cooler :ph34r:

The only criticism I have with the yellow jacks is the coil moves around the centre mounting bracket. Have seen it now on a few, but still can't beat the price.

Good to hear you have another cooler on the way Clint. Has to be better then the other by miles lol.

Are you still running the standard turbo?

AND what are you doing with your old cooler :ph34r:

Yeah standard turbo and injectors I recon it can pull another 20kw's before i need to upgrade the fuel system and turbo.

it's a return feed style on it's got $400 on it as soon as it comes out so whoever throws cash at me first gets to enjoy it.

Have fun at lakeside boys !! /sadface

So much god damn fun only managed to pull 175 down the straight (wet weather and i ran out of room)

The only criticism I have with the yellow jacks is the coil moves around the centre mounting bracket. Have seen it now on a few, but still can't beat the price.

Good to hear you have another cooler on the way Clint. Has to be better then the other by miles lol.

yeah they wiggle a bit but have yet to see one fail,

New cooler will be going in next weekend I hope and then back to Pete for a tune asap, I went with a hybrid as they have a good track record with low pressure drop coolers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...