Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just wanted to touch on that horsepower thing the other guy was talking about.....I was doing a little thinking about the horse, the rope and the weight etc. Does the weight of the rope enter into the equation and could the 1.8hp horse actually be using a lighter rope and therefore 'generous dyno'???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357541-sorry-nismoid-i-wasnt-finished/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

What if you stuffed said rope down horses spark plug hole. Would that up the c/r enough to make one horse a two horsepower horse.

wtf Noel! The rope is going to reduce the cc capacity of the chamber, in turn, reducing it's volumetric gallop ratio

I just wanted to touch on that horsepower thing the other guy was talking about.....I was doing a little thinking about the horse, the rope and the weight etc. Does the weight of the rope enter into the equation and could the 1.8hp horse actually be using a lighter rope and therefore 'generous dyno'???

Did you like the explanation of the history of the word boost. I thought it was pretty good.

As far as a generous dyno goes the weight of the rope is a constant. Dynos have to use the same grade rope. There will be some differences in the weight between the rope, the two main rope manufacturers of the day sourced their twine from different sides of the country, and there was some density difference, but this was so small that the weight difference is negligible compared to the weight of the mass.

That is not to say that generous dyno's didn't exist, because they did. When the horse did a "pull" on the dyno there was a person who had to count the revolutions of the sheave in a 30 second period if this guy got the count wrong by a rev or two that could put out the actual HP reading, Wetheringtons Horse Dyno Service was notorious for this as they used to employ the cheapest dyno operators who usually had trouble counting, giving a false reading.

Edited by robincooper

Did you like the explanation of the history of the word boost. I thought it was pretty good.

As far as a generous dyno goes the weight of the rope is a constant. Dynos have to use the same grade rope. There will be some differences in the weight between the rope, the two main rope manufacturers of the day sourced their twine from different sides of the country, and there was some density difference, but this was so small that the weight difference is negligible compared to the weight of the mass.

That is not to say that generous dyno's didn't exist, because they did. When the horse did a "pull" on the dyno there was a person who had to count the revolutions of the sheave in a 30 second period if this guy got the count wrong by a rev or two that could put out the actual HP reading, Wetheringtons Horse Dyno Service was notorious for this as they used to employ the cheapest dyno operators who usually had trouble counting, giving a false reading.

Were they located in Perth?

Who? Wetheringtons? The first Wetheringtons was a mobile service that went around to all the goldfields in Victoria so the miners could have their horses dynoed before they bought/sold a horse. The guy who had the mobile service, Arthur Wetherington later set up a workshop in Bendigo which was a great success. The business model was then franchised out to different people and I believe for a short while there was a Wetheringtons franchise in Perth.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...