Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not necessarily, he won't max either the stock injectors or afm with the stock turbo so not much point splashing coin when it isn't needed.

guess so but if the plan is to upgrade to bigger turbo might aswell do it all at once.

As im guessing its not as easy to setup the nistune for injector and afm unlike the pfc

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

guess so but if the plan is to upgrade to bigger turbo might aswell do it all at once.

As im guessing its not as easy to setup the nistune for injector and afm unlike the pfc

Actually injector and afm swaps couldn't be easier.

For injector swap just enter and old injector cc and the new cc and the nistune software makes all the adjustments for you, just need to do some fine adjustment of the Kconst and latency with a wideband.

AFM is the same, tell the software what the existing AFM is, and what the new AFM is and it makes the changes for you. Once again you just need to do some fine tuning with a wideband.

Just to clarify something, "headers" aren't really an upgrade for turbo cars as it's not as simple as bolting on a set of extractors and off you go.

The standard exhaust manifold is good for up around 300rwkw and generally an aftermarket exhaust manifold is used for a big turbo with an external wastegate.

Your first port of call should be a decent fuel pump and a full, turbo-back exhaust, boost tee (or electronic boost controller) then NIStune and a tune. That should net you close to 200rwkw and you can get used to driving it with some more power. By that stage you'll be needing to get the minor shift kit in to the auto and then you can look for a turbo upgrade.

I can take you for a ride in the wagon if you want, for all intents and purposes the engine is a 34GTT setup, it's just a bit heavier and is 4WD when I want it to be :)

Where about do you live ? Maybe I could bring my car for you to look at ? Haha

Because I think I have an aftermarket exhaust already but not sure what kind or type.It looks like this (ignore my reflection,just washed the car.It looks very shiny haha).

This is what the engine looks like (attached),everything is pretty much stock.Just a podilter,front mount intercooler and the boost set up to 11PSI.

Thanks !

post-79744-0-57631700-1300953557_thumb.jpgpost-79744-0-98477800-1300953565_thumb.jpgpost-79744-0-61805200-1300953575_thumb.jpg

Edited by Jeremy1607

looks like you definitely have a catback exhaust (rear part).

take a photo of the exhaust underneath the car, all the way so we can see how much of the exhaust needs to be done.

I did the full exhaust, intercooler and nistune first and made 190rwkw. This was a great setup. You might be happy here, well at least for a while. Then look at the next step.

Actually injector and afm swaps couldn't be easier.

For injector swap just enter and old injector cc and the new cc and the nistune software makes all the adjustments for you, just need to do some fine adjustment of the Kconst and latency with a wideband.

AFM is the same, tell the software what the existing AFM is, and what the new AFM is and it makes the changes for you. Once again you just need to do some fine tuning with a wideband.

^^this.

Where about do you live ? Maybe I could bring my car for you to look at ? Haha

Because I think I have an aftermarket exhaust already but not sure what kind or type.It looks like this (ignore my reflection,just washed the car.It looks very shiny haha).

This is what the engine looks like (attached),everything is pretty much stock.Just a podilter,front mount intercooler and the boost set up to 11PSI.

Thanks !

post-79744-0-57631700-1300953557_thumb.jpgpost-79744-0-98477800-1300953565_thumb.jpgpost-79744-0-61805200-1300953575_thumb.jpg

I'm in Ashfield mate, just east of the city.

As Harey said, you've already got at least a catback. You've also got a front mount and some more boost, need to sus out whether the fuel pump has been done as well.. kind of hard without pulling it out of the tank!

So really, NIStune and start saving for afm/injectors/turbo.

As Harey said, you've already got at least a catback. You've also got a front mount and some more boost, need to sus out whether the fuel pump has been done as well.. kind of hard without pulling it out of the tank!

Plus a hi flow cat and dump pipe most likely.

Chances are the fuel pump is standard. My standard fuel pump was fine even after it was tuned at 190rwkw. The R34 pumps seem to be pretty good and enough for the standard turbo.

Plus a hi flow cat and dump pipe most likely.

Chances are the fuel pump is standard. My standard fuel pump was fine even after it was tuned at 190rwkw. The R34 pumps seem to be pretty good and enough for the standard turbo.

Yeah sorry, forgot to say if it's only a cat back then a nice dump/front and a highflow cat needs to go in there too.

As for the fuel pump, I think it's more a case of them not being as old as R32 and R33 pumps but for piece of mind when pushing for more power, needs to be done.

Plus a hi flow cat and dump pipe most likely.

Chances are the fuel pump is standard. My standard fuel pump was fine even after it was tuned at 190rwkw. The R34 pumps seem to be pretty good and enough for the standard turbo.

I think I have a full exhaust system but not sure.You guys can be the judge haha.

Here it is...

post-79744-0-21917500-1301031727_thumb.jpgpost-79744-0-01486500-1301031739_thumb.jpgpost-79744-0-09296000-1301031747_thumb.jpgpost-79744-0-11729700-1301031754_thumb.jpg

Looks like a standard front pipe and standard cat.. Jump on justjap.com or similar, and look for a one-piece bellmouth dump/front and a highflow cat (steer clear of cheap Xforce cats).

As for the bodykit.. I believe that's a Z-tune kit.. fkn $_$

Edited by bubba

Looks like a standard front pipe and standard cat.. Jump on justjap.com or similar, and look for a one-piece bellmouth dump/front and a highflow cat (steer clear of cheap Xforce cats).

As for the bodykit.. I believe that's a Z-tune kit.. fkn $_$

Do you where to get a smaller size washer bottle ?

Wanna fit one instead of the stock GT-T bottle (which is bigger) due to having less room after fitting the intercooler kit with cross over pipe.

Do you where to get a smaller size washer bottle ?

Wanna fit one instead of the stock GT-T bottle (which is bigger) due to having less room after fitting the intercooler kit with cross over pipe.

Nothing off the shelf that I know of but someone like Embleton Engineering should be able to knock you up a neat little ally bottle.

About the same cost to get 250kw as 290 300ish just more lag and different parts eg different turbo, better clutch etc. So you need to decide on your own how much power your going to want and upgrade the usual bits to handle it. Plenty of results/ dyno graphs it the turbo upgrade thread.

Plenty of people asking "what do I need for 250, 280, 300kw etc" and plenty of answers to these questions...

Find these threads and start with the supporting mods first otherwise you will have to pay for twice as many tunes.

  • 4 weeks later...

Okay,finally after I've installed the Nistune ECU and tuned it.

To start with the modifications,I was thinking to buy all these other supporting items as follows :

Z32 AFM

Sard 650cc Injectors

Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump

X-Force 3" High Flow Cat

JJR Bellmouth 3" Dump Pipe

Please give me any tips or recommendations that you have before I go ahead with my order ?

Cheers rolleyes.gif

A z32afm reads the airflow and sends the info to the ecu. They are used because they can read more flow than the stock afm.

An Apexi SAFC adjusts the signal from the afm in order to try to acheive better afrs - a task much better left to the nistuned ecu.

Consider getting one of the new Deatschwerks pumps instead of the Walbro.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...