Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not necessarily, he won't max either the stock injectors or afm with the stock turbo so not much point splashing coin when it isn't needed.

guess so but if the plan is to upgrade to bigger turbo might aswell do it all at once.

As im guessing its not as easy to setup the nistune for injector and afm unlike the pfc

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

guess so but if the plan is to upgrade to bigger turbo might aswell do it all at once.

As im guessing its not as easy to setup the nistune for injector and afm unlike the pfc

Actually injector and afm swaps couldn't be easier.

For injector swap just enter and old injector cc and the new cc and the nistune software makes all the adjustments for you, just need to do some fine adjustment of the Kconst and latency with a wideband.

AFM is the same, tell the software what the existing AFM is, and what the new AFM is and it makes the changes for you. Once again you just need to do some fine tuning with a wideband.

Just to clarify something, "headers" aren't really an upgrade for turbo cars as it's not as simple as bolting on a set of extractors and off you go.

The standard exhaust manifold is good for up around 300rwkw and generally an aftermarket exhaust manifold is used for a big turbo with an external wastegate.

Your first port of call should be a decent fuel pump and a full, turbo-back exhaust, boost tee (or electronic boost controller) then NIStune and a tune. That should net you close to 200rwkw and you can get used to driving it with some more power. By that stage you'll be needing to get the minor shift kit in to the auto and then you can look for a turbo upgrade.

I can take you for a ride in the wagon if you want, for all intents and purposes the engine is a 34GTT setup, it's just a bit heavier and is 4WD when I want it to be :)

Where about do you live ? Maybe I could bring my car for you to look at ? Haha

Because I think I have an aftermarket exhaust already but not sure what kind or type.It looks like this (ignore my reflection,just washed the car.It looks very shiny haha).

This is what the engine looks like (attached),everything is pretty much stock.Just a podilter,front mount intercooler and the boost set up to 11PSI.

Thanks !

post-79744-0-57631700-1300953557_thumb.jpgpost-79744-0-98477800-1300953565_thumb.jpgpost-79744-0-61805200-1300953575_thumb.jpg

Edited by Jeremy1607

looks like you definitely have a catback exhaust (rear part).

take a photo of the exhaust underneath the car, all the way so we can see how much of the exhaust needs to be done.

I did the full exhaust, intercooler and nistune first and made 190rwkw. This was a great setup. You might be happy here, well at least for a while. Then look at the next step.

Actually injector and afm swaps couldn't be easier.

For injector swap just enter and old injector cc and the new cc and the nistune software makes all the adjustments for you, just need to do some fine adjustment of the Kconst and latency with a wideband.

AFM is the same, tell the software what the existing AFM is, and what the new AFM is and it makes the changes for you. Once again you just need to do some fine tuning with a wideband.

^^this.

Where about do you live ? Maybe I could bring my car for you to look at ? Haha

Because I think I have an aftermarket exhaust already but not sure what kind or type.It looks like this (ignore my reflection,just washed the car.It looks very shiny haha).

This is what the engine looks like (attached),everything is pretty much stock.Just a podilter,front mount intercooler and the boost set up to 11PSI.

Thanks !

post-79744-0-57631700-1300953557_thumb.jpgpost-79744-0-98477800-1300953565_thumb.jpgpost-79744-0-61805200-1300953575_thumb.jpg

I'm in Ashfield mate, just east of the city.

As Harey said, you've already got at least a catback. You've also got a front mount and some more boost, need to sus out whether the fuel pump has been done as well.. kind of hard without pulling it out of the tank!

So really, NIStune and start saving for afm/injectors/turbo.

As Harey said, you've already got at least a catback. You've also got a front mount and some more boost, need to sus out whether the fuel pump has been done as well.. kind of hard without pulling it out of the tank!

Plus a hi flow cat and dump pipe most likely.

Chances are the fuel pump is standard. My standard fuel pump was fine even after it was tuned at 190rwkw. The R34 pumps seem to be pretty good and enough for the standard turbo.

Plus a hi flow cat and dump pipe most likely.

Chances are the fuel pump is standard. My standard fuel pump was fine even after it was tuned at 190rwkw. The R34 pumps seem to be pretty good and enough for the standard turbo.

Yeah sorry, forgot to say if it's only a cat back then a nice dump/front and a highflow cat needs to go in there too.

As for the fuel pump, I think it's more a case of them not being as old as R32 and R33 pumps but for piece of mind when pushing for more power, needs to be done.

Plus a hi flow cat and dump pipe most likely.

Chances are the fuel pump is standard. My standard fuel pump was fine even after it was tuned at 190rwkw. The R34 pumps seem to be pretty good and enough for the standard turbo.

I think I have a full exhaust system but not sure.You guys can be the judge haha.

Here it is...

post-79744-0-21917500-1301031727_thumb.jpgpost-79744-0-01486500-1301031739_thumb.jpgpost-79744-0-09296000-1301031747_thumb.jpgpost-79744-0-11729700-1301031754_thumb.jpg

Looks like a standard front pipe and standard cat.. Jump on justjap.com or similar, and look for a one-piece bellmouth dump/front and a highflow cat (steer clear of cheap Xforce cats).

As for the bodykit.. I believe that's a Z-tune kit.. fkn $_$

Edited by bubba

Looks like a standard front pipe and standard cat.. Jump on justjap.com or similar, and look for a one-piece bellmouth dump/front and a highflow cat (steer clear of cheap Xforce cats).

As for the bodykit.. I believe that's a Z-tune kit.. fkn $_$

Do you where to get a smaller size washer bottle ?

Wanna fit one instead of the stock GT-T bottle (which is bigger) due to having less room after fitting the intercooler kit with cross over pipe.

Do you where to get a smaller size washer bottle ?

Wanna fit one instead of the stock GT-T bottle (which is bigger) due to having less room after fitting the intercooler kit with cross over pipe.

Nothing off the shelf that I know of but someone like Embleton Engineering should be able to knock you up a neat little ally bottle.

About the same cost to get 250kw as 290 300ish just more lag and different parts eg different turbo, better clutch etc. So you need to decide on your own how much power your going to want and upgrade the usual bits to handle it. Plenty of results/ dyno graphs it the turbo upgrade thread.

Plenty of people asking "what do I need for 250, 280, 300kw etc" and plenty of answers to these questions...

Find these threads and start with the supporting mods first otherwise you will have to pay for twice as many tunes.

  • 4 weeks later...

Okay,finally after I've installed the Nistune ECU and tuned it.

To start with the modifications,I was thinking to buy all these other supporting items as follows :

Z32 AFM

Sard 650cc Injectors

Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump

X-Force 3" High Flow Cat

JJR Bellmouth 3" Dump Pipe

Please give me any tips or recommendations that you have before I go ahead with my order ?

Cheers rolleyes.gif

A z32afm reads the airflow and sends the info to the ecu. They are used because they can read more flow than the stock afm.

An Apexi SAFC adjusts the signal from the afm in order to try to acheive better afrs - a task much better left to the nistuned ecu.

Consider getting one of the new Deatschwerks pumps instead of the Walbro.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...