Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nearly 2 months on, but i finally have my speedo sender, arrived today and is installed and WORKING!!

hard to tell how much the power steering coming back has changed things, as i have different wheels, different steering wheel and HICAS removed.

atleast when i get it rego'd i'll be able to drive it around a bit and get some road tuning done.

  • Replies 184
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 months later...

Spent a little time on this in the last 2 months, though not enough :(

Car is rego'd and running on the road!

took the car out for a few drives and was blowing IC hoses - easy fix with welding on some beads to the new alloy piping i made

Car is running better and better everytime i take it out. Fiddled with the tune and did some logging with the datalogit - ended up adding 4 degrees of timing in the off boost area with only 3 cells reporting 15 or 16 knock in the logs - just have a loose connection in the wideband setup that stops it working every now and then. probably something i did when i was hooking the PLX SM-AFR up to the datalogit unit.

Anyway, it feels much faster than my stocker 33 for normal road driving, as any boost really does send me over the speed limit lol - think i can get to about 3psi before im speeding haha

best thing - its so quiet!!! (well except the exhaust) - no rattles, no knocks just a little scrubbing on the stock rear guards over bumps, so a quick roll of the guards should sort that out.

Cheers Dave - chop chop :P

time to finished the interior for me though

Ah well I have already finished that part of mine.

BTW more coating to be done soon on a new strut brace. Friggen C/F bonnet won't shut with teh nismo one :(

that sucks dave :( i'll see if i can find any spare alloy to make a new centre for you.

Some pics of the new manifold im making from my fabrication thread - http://www.skylinesa...ds-fabrication/

post-5157-0-32760400-1319340562_thumb.jpg

post-5157-0-94840000-1319340563_thumb.jpg

post-5157-0-58149100-1319340565_thumb.jpg

post-5157-0-78538100-1319340566_thumb.jpg

  • 10 months later...

Cant believe how long its been already - hoping to get a bunch of stuff fitted for the cruise on the 30th - see how that goes

car needs some tunes, so a mount for the Amp needs to be fabricated asap.

Cant believe how long its been already - hoping to get a bunch of stuff fitted for the cruise on the 30th - see how that goes

car needs some tunes, so a mount for the Amp needs to be fabricated asap.

Wow! Been ages........... i wanted to make that cruise but will depend on how the car is running with the issues.................

SO much positive feedback from your handy work ;)

nothing new, i havent had time to drive it since i got it home, jsut in and out of shed a few times lol

time for fresh fuel, new fuel surge tank, amp mount and some street tyres on another set of 350z rims i bought.

  • 10 months later...

its been pretty crazy after moving into my new shop and expanding the services i provide into the domestic and commercial/industrial market.

but now i've had some time to get working on my own things again.

newly coated bronze 350z rims with some federal 595's for street duties

post-5157-0-11334500-1376200389_thumb.jpg

Then in prep of getting my 26/30 finished one day i figured ill spend on a known commodity of a 6boost manifold - designed for the 26/30 but with a 25/26 flange pattern so i can get it installed on the RB25 and only have limited changes to make when the motor is built and swapped over.

upgraded from the tial 38mm wastegate to the turbosmart 50mm item, the old setup had the gate hanging right down at the chassis rail via some adapters etc, never caused any issues but wasnt as neat as id like

post-5157-0-90386700-1376200511_thumb.jpeg

post-5157-0-59561900-1376200537_thumb.jpeg

got some time to perfect the surge tank design, my original fabricated one was around 4.5L and overkill.

new one is 2L and alot tighter to the car and will weigh less and is easier to replicate if anybody would want one.

post-5157-0-77183300-1376200674_thumb.jpeg

post-5157-0-32361000-1376200698_thumb.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...