Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im building a rb26 got my gtr

car has a aurtronic ecu and cdi

has garret -5 turbos

555cc injectors

im wanting to build a reliable hard reving gtr which doesnt spin bearings

wanting 300plus kw at the wheels maybe 350

has a os triple plate clutch

just after some help on mods to motor oil issues etc head work? cams? pistons rods needed.

maybe someone near newcastle to help or build

can the gearboxs handle it drive shafts etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358007-rb26-rebuild/
Share on other sites

Have a good read of the 'oil surge', 'broken N1 oil pump' and 'breather' threads for alot of the info you need on oil controll issues.

At 350rwkw, dont get too caught up with internal modifications... Get the engine prepped and built by an experienced RB builder, keep everything stock exept a set of forged pistons, oil pump (and matching crank collar) and set of drop in cams. Everything else gets measured, machined, ballanced and prepared correctly.

Get the biggest sump extension you can find/afford, a good oil pump (nitto seem to be the best option for the money), enlarged oil return galleries, block restricters, mines style rocker baffles and an accusump (if your budget allows).

If your going to rev it 8k+ invest in a good crank ballancer.

Your going to need an external 044 at a minimum or larger, bigger injectors and I would invest in a duel entry fuel rail.

Two rb20det afm's are the same size as Z32's but they plug directly into the rb26 loom and have enough resolution for 400rwkw-

I broke my first GTR box (3rd gear) at around 380rwkw... That was with an R3C (os tripple) clutch- For 350rwkw I would sell the OS clutch and buy a Jim Berry full monty, it will help the gearbox last longer. The rest of the drive line will be fine.

Contact Paul from Red R Racing for engine building etc...

Cheers

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358007-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-5721159
Share on other sites

if you want this to be 'hard revving' you will need:

valve springs (singles ok, but doubles much better if you can afford them)

while your doing them get some baby cams to open the engine up a bit at high rpm and get the valve clearances set too (important if you want to spin it hard)

get a good balancer. N1 balancer is a minimum, ATS or Ross is better still

get the basic rods/pistons/bearings kit like t04GTR mentioned above, and get them weight balanced too

fit a small oil feed restrictor, 1.1mm if you are going to be revving it.

good oil pump is a wise idea too.

big sump too since you are going to rev it

with all that gear 9,000rpm should be a walk in the park.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358007-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-5722937
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...