Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I dont think so, I think all tuners do a dyno tune then take it to the road to check that theres no knocks/get rid off knocks when they are present, they couldn't be arsed doing a road tune, when their time is money and another job is waiting in the line.. So there's no way to tell that your car has been road tuned unless you are a dud who believes most things people tell you and are easily mislead....ha ha

the best way is to spend the entire couple of days at the workshop or plant a secret camera in the car..omg.. As someone said earlier, most tuners would basically give u a before and after dyno print out to make you happy and believe your car has had a fantastic tune...what with the power increase on the printout..unless its someone you know / can trust etc..

  • 2 weeks later...

Been to GAS Motorsport - the bloke I met there is so cool, a really friendly and helpful guy, u can tell they love their cars - they can tune same day - drive in and out provided theres no issues, plus u get to watch the tuner doin his tune, not only that, they have some really great prices too.

Anyone tuned their car with Nistune there?

And a awesome Supra they got in-house - GAS2JZ - 1200+HP at wheels! !

Wouldnt wana say that in forums, I dont think its good practice, but their workshop is one of the best and cleanest I've seen, and they make some really insane 2JZ cars, plus a really top bloke they have there as well

fair enough, it has already been posted in this thread that most big tuners do it for 1100, except CRD 1400.

then you say GAS have really great prices.

Has he tuned with nistune before?

he might put a RB in his drag car and start doing RB's instead of 2J after tuning your car lol

Been to GAS Motorsport - the bloke I met there is so cool, a really friendly and helpful guy, u can tell they love their cars - they can tune same day - drive in and out provided theres no issues, plus u get to watch the tuner doin his tune, not only that, they have some really great prices too.

Anyone tuned their car with Nistune there?

And a awesome Supra they got in-house - GAS2JZ - 1200+HP at wheels! !

Drive in drive out same day isn't a full tune. There is no way they can check the cold start.

Nothing wrong with it, i have done it that way plenty of times, but you have to accept that it won't be perfect when cold.

On the plus side, the factory temp enrichment map is pretty forgiving so if you haven't gone overboard on mods you'll get away with it.

Wana book it in this weekend - so I found that my car is running really farked between 1000-1800ish rpms, like shuddering and jolting and misfiring, above that is awesome through to 7000rpms no dramas there at all, and feel like good power gain, idle is 90% okay but not as smooth as before.. Man its makin me nuts, feel like setting the whole damn thing alight!

Some peeps say I need a re-wire, some say I need a tune, anyways I think I will ask the tuner to take out the damn pump and check the voltages in diff rpms, and if thats stuffed, then re-wire or run a earth to the chasis from the fuel pump control modulator (where is this and what does it look like?)

I know there could be several things that can cause this problem - dirty AFM, coilpacks, sparkies, TPS etc, but definitely NOT this time, my car was fine and smooth as before I changed the pump, but running quite lean and not feeling as fast as now in the mid-high rpms..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...