Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 1 month later...

lol damn, was some misinformation d1nz!!!

got the stuff from the gtr now but clutchslave won't fit rb20 gearbox, clutchmaster is too big and won't fit in the stock-clutch holes, gotta drill some new holes or just a stock cefiro clutchmaster...

clutchpedals fits surprised straight on, but the pedal is too near to the brakepedal what makes it stupid, gotta bend the pedal a bit out of the way from the brake.

on my A31 the driver sits on right side, don't know maybe there's a difference that the stuff i got didn't fit...

Hey M8, Just cut the Auto brake pedal on the left side to make it the right width and put a pk screw through the pedal rubber to hold it on looks dk and works perfectly. Jamind, A31 SE4

i already cut the brakepedal and its rubberthing down^^

i also bend the clutchpedal straight that its not that bad close to the brakepedal and looks natural :whistling:

all this is just for a 32 gtr clutchpedal! other models are different...

btw r32 gtr clutchpedal got a booster too, it won't fit right in it needs modification for that, i just used a r32 gtst clutchmaster cylinder it fit right in(a31 clutchmaster is the same)

if somebody want pictures tell me...

so my non turbo cefiro rear brakes matched up to be same as the,

Bendix Part Number:

DB1144 - REAR

does this mean;

-rb20e

-rb20de

-rb20det

-rb25de

modeled cefiro's all come with rear turbo brakes?

just to add my front non turbo brakes were slightly bigger then sr20de front caliper, but smaller then the sr20det caliper

Edited by Dan_J

You'd prob be right about Thailand, Asia (ex. Japan), South American, etc Cefiro's (all LHD).

What about the LATE late model ones. LHD Laurels and Cefiro's were made and sold up to 1997, and sometime between 94-97 they came factory with 5 stud.

My understanding was all Cefiro's, from 20E to 25DE came with the same brakes front and back, which are very similar to SR20 brakes but not interchangeable.

I've offered my whole brake setup for free to couple of Sil owners and they rejected, claiming it's different to SR brakes...

Beats me. Skyline brake upgrade FTW.

Edited by Nic_A31
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

reason i ask is that i swaped what i now believe are s2/3 round plug coil packs for the spare set of r32 rb20 i had laying around into my engine.

now i started to get the missfire above 4-6k where as my original ones did not missfire even tho the r32 ones looked in better condition and even had 'coils' on the end of them unlike my cefiro ones which where burnt out

so ceffy coils stamped 185 / 135 / 1xx

and r32 coil 3xx

?

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

was it like that when u got it? could be the central locking unit or the brake light relay somehow.... something in the boot, have a look around

Hey Dan.

yeah the central locking has never worked.. the drivers side rear door will do the auto lock thing at above 20kph and will lock when i lock the drivers door. but wont unlock and no other door will lock or unlock.

brake light relay you say?? how so?

also ive noticed lately that while im driving around there is a clickin coming from the passenger side door, not sure if front or rear.

but basically its the same clickin that happens if i press the door lock button on the drivers door handle.

well awhile ago i swapped my brake light relay unit with another similar looking unit i had laying around( which i found out to be a r33 relay of some kind ) which made my central locking not work at all.

so just swap the long black brake light relay thats mounted on your boot wall with your c33 mate

  • 2 weeks later...

The tailshaft just depends on if its ABS or non ABS.

R33 diffs can fit. The 5 bolt axles are a direct fit into the existing hubs.

Most Cefiro's have a 4.36:1 ratio, so S13, diffs are the go.

If you want to use another ratio, you'll need to get the speedo drive from the same vehicle and chuck that into your box, so your speedo stays in sync.

hey dan.

another question about the central lockin in the laurel..

i was at a local wrecker the other day and found a ceffy. its mostly gone but the lock acuators were still there so i grabbed em.

went to put them in but they are way different.

so i decided to see if i could figure out why mine dont work.

and it seems that its the acuators them selves that are f**ked as wen i plugged in the ceffy one it would work.

so i took them out and the arm that goes on the gear to the motor was really loose. pulled them apart and couldnt figure out how they are ment to work. ended up figuring out that they use a spring.

anyways..

question. is it possible to fix them. if not do you know of any replacement for them?

cant say i know too much about the central locking actuators them self so i camt help there, although like any car u can get generic/brand name central locking kits with the actuators.

the only stuffing around is finding the right type that will mount with some mods and making sure it'll wire into the factory wiring and relay well.

not much help but i guess have a chat with a car security/alarm installer

yeah. hopefully i wont have to go down that path. bein doin a bit of research and it looks as tho r32/33 skyline actuators are the same/similar.

and from what i found when i was pullin mine out. they are universal fit.

ie the 1 actuator will fit every door as you can just flip it/turn it to suit what ever orientation is required.

fingers crossed. ill post up in the parts section if i get them to work

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...