Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

good idea guys:D

ok i ask the first question...

i got a a31 cefiro...if i wanna get a r32 gtr brake mater cylinder, clutch master/slave cylinder and cluchpedals in there will it just fit or does it need some modification?

i got a cheap offer from a guy which is breaking his gtr,...i saw somewhere gtst will fit straight but i'm not sure about gtr?

  • 2 weeks later...

lol damn, was some misinformation d1nz!!!

got the stuff from the gtr now but clutchslave won't fit rb20 gearbox, clutchmaster is too big and won't fit in the stock-clutch holes, gotta drill some new holes or just a stock cefiro clutchmaster...

clutchpedals fits surprised straight on, but the pedal is too near to the brakepedal what makes it stupid, gotta bend the pedal a bit out of the way from the brake.

on my A31 the driver sits on right side, don't know maybe there's a difference that the stuff i got didn't fit...

gtst stuff will fit, gtr has a clutch booster and it may be the pull type not push for the slave which is what u need. gts4/gtr clutch slave has different mounting holes so u cant use it.

gtr brake master will bolt on other then the extra oil port for the abs, you can get it working on non abs somehow.

lutchpedals fits surprised straight on, but the pedal is too near to the brakepedal what makes it stupid, gotta bend the pedal a bit out of the way from the brake.

are you using the auto brake pedal? if so DONT use it the way it is, u cud remove it and grind it down.

Edited by Dan_J

lol spended 100 for the clutch master/slave and can't use it,...but who gives a shit? now i know if for the next time:D

btw i already cut the brakepedal and grinded it,...the problem is the gtr got a booster which needs space so nissan bend the clutchpedal to the right to let it sit near the brakepedal as usual...cefiro got no booster so all is a bit more together, fixed it easy, hit the pedal with the hammer to get the bend off now its straight and clutching is fun:D

Standard RB20 item mate. The SR ones are different. Could maybe make it fit with some modifying / creating your own bracket to mount it, and then make up new lines, but for $50-$100 + Freight (at most), why bother ?

Quiet old units now, it might be worth hitting up Nissan, or see what's available aftermarket (Bosch, maybe??) - newer is better.

  • 2 weeks later...

There's 2 surrounds, total 4 pieces.

One surround is fixed to the collumn (section with the key barrel) the other section moves inwards and outwards with the telescopic adjustment (fixed to the section with the wiper/headlight stalks)

Interchangeable with C33 Laurel.

I've got those left over from my halfcut in brown, I'll try find them and dye them black if you want them, PM me if interested.

Standard RB20 item mate. The SR ones are different. Could maybe make it fit with some modifying / creating your own bracket to mount it, and then make up new lines, but for $50-$100 + Freight (at most), why bother ?

Quiet old units now, it might be worth hitting up Nissan, or see what's available aftermarket (Bosch, maybe??) - newer is better.

Will an RB25 or 26 compressor fit? Might be worth getting one from a newer car that supports R134a natively. (Hychill is illegal in the UK, sadly)

Yeah they'll fit but other models might have different fittings for the lines on the actual compressor itself.

If buying try to get a pic of the fittings, and if they fittings appear different, as for the fitting / entire line as well if possible.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Great interview on damper settings and coil selection by HPA https://www.facebook.com/HPAcademy/videos/30284693841175196/?fs=e&s=TIeQ9V&fs=e
    • Yeah, it was a pretty deep dig.
    • The values for HID colour are also defined ~ see https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2006L02732/latest/text  ~ goto section 3.9 onwards ....
    • So, if the headlights' cutoff behaviour (angles, heights, etc) are not as per 6.2.6.1.1 without automatic levelling, then you have to have to have automatic** levelling. Also, if the headlight does not have the required markings, then neither automatic nor manual adjusters are going to be acceptable. That's because the base headlight itself does not meet the minimum requirement (which is the marking). ** with the option of manual levelling, if the headlight otherwise meets the same requirements as for the automatic case AND can be set to the "base" alignment at the headlight itself. So that's an additional requirement for the manual case. So, provided that the marking is on the headlight and there is a local manual adjustment back to "base" on the headlight, then yes, you could argue that they are code compliant. But if you are missing any single one of these things, then they are not. And unlike certain other standards that I work with, there does not seem to be scope to prepare a "fitness for purpose" report. Well, I guess there actually is. You might engage an automotive engineer to write a report stating that the lights meet the performance requirements of the standard even if they are missing, for example, the markings.  
    • Vertical orientation   6.2.6.1.1. The initial downward inclination of the cut off of the dipped-beam to be set in the unladen vehicle state with one person in the driver's seat shall be specified within an accuracy of 0.1 per cent by the manufacturer and indicated in a clearly legible and indelible manner on each vehicle close to either headlamp or the manufacturer's plate by the symbol shown in Annex 7.   The value of this indicated downward inclination shall be defined in accordance with paragraph 6.2.6.1.2.   6.2.6.1.2. Depending on the mounting height in metres (h) of the lower edge of the apparent surface in the direction of the reference axis of the dipped beam headlamp, measured on the unladen vehicles, the vertical inclination of the cut off of the dipped- beam shall, under all the static conditions of Annex 5, remain between the following limits and the initial aiming shall have the following values:   h < 0.8   Limits: between 0.5 per cent and 2.5 per cent   Initial aiming: between 1.0 per cent and 1.5 per cent   0.8 < h < 1.0   Limits: between 0.5 per cent and 2.5 per cent   Initial aiming: between 1.0 per cent and 1.5 per cent   Or, at the discretion of the manufacturer,   Limits: between 1.0 per cent and 3.0 per cent   Initial aiming: between 1.5 per cent and 2.0 per cent   The application for the vehicle type approval shall, in this case, contain information as to which of the two alternatives is to be used.   h > 1.0   Limits: between 1.0 per cent and 3.0 per cent   Initial aiming: between 1.5 per cent and 2.0 per cent   The above limits and the initial aiming values are summarized in the diagram below.   For category N3G (off-road) vehicles where the headlamps exceed a height of 1,200 mm, the limits for the vertical inclination of the cut-off shall be between: -1.5 per cent and -3.5 per cent.   The initial aim shall be set between: -2 per cent and -2.5 per cent.
×
×
  • Create New...