Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys took car out for a spin tonight and under full boost I get s spluttering sound and notice that I'm hitting 100% duty cycle around 2/3 of the time ?

Forged rb25det

Gt3582r @ 20 psi

Sard 550cc

Sard FPR (new)

Walbro 255 pump

Z32 afm

Power fc pro

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358384-spark-issues/
Share on other sites

A 35R should be making a LOT more than 290rwkw @ 20psi. You'd expect around 340rwkw.

Clearly you have issues going on, probably a combination.

I suggest you go back to whoever tuned it and get it on the dyno to diagnose the problems. Could be a number of issues.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358384-spark-issues/#findComment-5726227
Share on other sites

Well maybe it's the fact my car was slipping on dyno and I've fitted new clutch on saturday and now it's getting all the power to the ground ? Shouldn't 555cc injectors support 350rwkw like everyone on forum states they can

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358384-spark-issues/#findComment-5726235
Share on other sites

They will support 330-350rwkw. But who knows whats going on.

You've fitted an aftermarket reg, it could be set wrong.

Fuel pump might be having issues, fuel filter even

As for the power you might have exhaust restrictions, timing could be wrong

Who knows mate. I think there is more to your problem and it's not coil packs at this stage.

Either way you must take it and get it looked at on a dyno, see what the fuel pressure, AFR's, boost etc is all doing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358384-spark-issues/#findComment-5726238
Share on other sites

Especially with your threads the past month, certainly issues

I may be barking up the wrong tree here, but does it pain you to talk/type in a friendly/non-threatening tone?

Yes, your posts are very informative, but you almost always talk down to everyone who has less knowledge than you, sorry just pointing it out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358384-spark-issues/#findComment-5726252
Share on other sites

Well no - it's still down on 50rwkw for the boost/setup you have.

So whilst you had bung plug, it doesn't explain the rest. Or why the plug was fouled in the first place.

I may be barking up the wrong tree here, but does it pain you to talk/type in a friendly/non-threatening tone?

Yes, your posts are very informative, but you almost always talk down to everyone who has less knowledge than you, sorry just pointing it out.

I was stating a fact - It was totally neutral.

Have a look at his post history. He's had a number of issues with the car of late.

If stating fact is a non friendly tone, well stuffed if i know what your talking about.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358384-spark-issues/#findComment-5726270
Share on other sites

And yeh she is running 44 psi is that ok?

That is the factory psi, since it is adjustable you may as well up it a little on your next tune to give your self more headroom and keep it safe.

Yeh well I'm not sure maybe the fact im running a stock exhaust manifold and intake manifold ?

Yeh I have a good exhaust setup 3.5 inch cat back and it's only a new FPR and pump , what fuel pressure is recomended ?

So judging by those 2 comments im assuming that you have factory manifold, dump, front dump and cat?

If so there is your problem, upgrade the dumps and cat first and see how it goes then do the manifold if needed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358384-spark-issues/#findComment-5731451
Share on other sites

I may be barking up the wrong tree here, but does it pain you to talk/type in a friendly/non-threatening tone?

Yes, your posts are very informative, but you almost always talk down to everyone who has less knowledge than you, sorry just pointing it out.

I agree with your post 1000% because you are CORRECT 74 thousand posts that would Drive me stoopid also he does not think he talks down to members but he prooves it in his reply to ohwell

ive just wasted another 5 minutes of my time Grrrrrr

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358384-spark-issues/#findComment-5733194
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
×
×
  • Create New...