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Power Goal 600hp Torque? YES

Tuning/Engineering Options

1. EFI Performance Yatala

2. Elite Racing Developments Yatala

Parts

BLACK Sure Of Brand/Part

GREY Uncertain of Brand

GREEN Bought

1. RB26DETT Head

2. RB30DET Block (Series 3, Silhouette or series 2 both have oil lines)

3. AftermarketValves

4. Custom Billet or Tomei Camshafts

5. Adjustable Cam Gear

6. Springs

7. Head Gasket

8. Spool Con rods

9. Rings (come with CP forged pistons from Spool)

10. CP Forged Pistons

11. Custom/Engineered Crank

12. Plenum (6Boost?)

13. Exhaust manifold

14. Large Turbo (Garret)

15. PWR Intercooler

16. Dayco 94407 Timing Belt

17. ACL Bearings

18. Oil restrictor for head

19. Harmonic Balancer

20. Oil Pump

21. Thermostat

22. NISMO enginemounts

23. Sump (Dry sump?)

24. Fuel Pump/s

25. Waste Gate

26. BO Valve

27. Water Pump

28. Alternator

29. Starter Motor

30. Plumbing

31. PWR Radiator/Oil Cooler

So as you have probably already realised this is the beginning, and these are the parts I have thought up tonight after some research and RB knowledge. I may have missed a few things but it is 1.30am. The build will start when I purchase the head closely followed by a block and working out the fitments and what not, then I will be getting into it. I will be building as I go so I am planning on building it over the next year. Feel free to pitch in your ideas, it will be street driven and yes I am aiming for 600hp, I don't want to just wing it and end up with a random figure. That is all I can think of at the moment, my name is Aaron by the way.

Cheers.

Edited by azarawr
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Power Goal 600hp Torque? YES

Tuning/Engineering Options

1. EFI Performance Yatala

2. Elite Racing Developments Yatala

Parts

BLACK Sure Of Brand/Part

GREY Uncertain of Brand

GREEN Bought

1. RB26DETT Head

2. RB30DET Block (Series 3, Silhouette or series 2 both have oil lines)

3. AftermarketValves - Ferrea Valves

4. Custom Billet or Tomei Camshafts

5. Adjustable Cam Gear - just pick some

6. Springs - valve springs i assume? Performance Springs, could go jap if you wanted.

7. Head Gasket - cometic mls, japs also do them

8. Spool Con rods

9. Rings (come with CP forged pistons from Spool)

10. CP Forged Pistons

11. Custom/Engineered Crank

12. Plenum (6Boost?) - stock RB26 intake manifold, possibly look at an aftermarket one if you really want to

13. Exhaust manifold - 6boost/ETM/fullrace

14. Large Turbo (Garret) GT4088R/GT4094R the 88 might be a tad on the small side for 98 pump fuel

15. PWR Intercooler

16. Dayco 94407 Timing Belt

17. ACL Bearings

18. Oil restrictor for head - 1mm/1.5mm

19. Harmonic Balancer - Ross/ATI

20. Oil Pump - nitto/tomei/jun

21. Thermostat - stock/nismo low temp if you really want to

22. NISMO enginemounts

23. Sump (Dry sump?) if you have the coin for dry sum sure, otherwise a gated sump extension.

24. Fuel Pump/s - depends on surge tank setup

25. Waste Gate - discuss with manifold builder, know what turbo you are using before hand.

26. BO Valve - what ever you want, this isnt a performance item

27. Water Pump - stock RB26

28. Alternator - stock

29. Starter Motor - stock

30. Plumbing - custom made to suit

31. PWR Radiator/Oil Cooler

So as you have probably already realised this is the beginning, and these are the parts I have thought up tonight after some research and RB knowledge. I may have missed a few things but it is 1.30am. The build will start when I purchase the head closely followed by a block and working out the fitments and what not, then I will be getting into it. I will be building as I go so I am planning on building it over the next year. Feel free to pitch in your ideas, it will be street driven and yes I am aiming for 600hp, I don't want to just wing it and end up with a random figure. That is all I can think of at the moment, my name is Aaron by the way.

Cheers.

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UPDATE

I have found a port and polished head in Melbourne without the camshafts and valves and this led me to my next potential purchase valves. I am torn between Supertech +1mm OR Ferrea +1mm because both are well known and have been used in several big engine builds. Supertech is recommended by a few Brisbane engineers and are slightly cheaper however you can't go past Ferrea although they are an extra $200 for a set of valves, so let me know what you think? I am going to wait and make up my mind when it comes to the time of buying them.

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Good call, I was just thinking about running 24 psi and possibly in the future amping up the power so I would do all of the flow and strength upgrades now. My dad's best friend just blew his $50,000 chev big block drag engine up because a valve snapped because it possibly was getting slammed shut to hard, I know this could be due to the duration and lift of the cam being to steep but to give myself some piece of mind I would like to purchase after market, strengthened valves. Just my opinion. Don't get me wrong I am not denying the idea, Thanks for the feedback.

Aaron

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UPDATE

I have had a chat to JHH Engineering and it looks like I will be going with them for my head work and I may be going with over sized valves however, I have to go down in person to JHH to solve that matter. I am going to get my head ported and polished because I will be pushing around 24psi through it as a rough basis and it is always a good place to start as the bottom end cops the power while the head controls it :)

I have also stumbled across the RB34 Stroker Kit from Spool and priced at $5,500 that is fairly priced seeing as it comes with the I Beam Con Rods and CP pistons. It looks very enticing as I am after a 600hp weapon that has a lot of torque rather than an insanely high power figure that will give be an unnecessary top speed that I will never clock .

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UPDATE

I have found both an RB26DETT Head and RB30 Series 2 Block (from two different sellers) that are most likely going to be the ones I purchase for the build. I have also stumbled across another stroker, Nitto's RB32 Stroker which has more credibility and testimonials than the RB34, however it is still up in the air. Coming in at just under $10,000 further research must be done to justify using this stroker. One last thing, Kelford camshafts are going to go into the head of my RB26/30 as JHH has some pretty wicked history with them getting an extra 70KW out of a car in ZOOM magazine is just nuts!

Thats all for now,

OUT

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The nitto stroker would be great if you want 10,000rpm and to be rated to 1600hp.

As for the 3.4 there is no substitute for capacity and still good for 8000rpm.

Yes, good call. As I said, I do want a torque monster so bigger capacity producing a bigger throw = more torque with a lower angular velocity is the I was going however, the Nitto setup from what I have read, has more research and knowledge placed into it when it was engineered because Nitto has been around longer and I would imaginge have a bigger budget to work with and so that is why I was taking a step back. However, I am not taking anything away from SPOOL I think he has done a great job and only time will tell with more statistics and research whether or not I want to go for the RB34 or RB32. For now I am focusing on the head so perhaps in 6 months time I will have made my decision.

Thanks for all the feedback, I would love to see more followers :D

Aaron

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i run a std head and valves, ported and polished by me, spool rods, cp pistons, tomei oil pump. 800bhp and 660 lbs of torque @ 1.5 bar boost, why waste so much money on parts not needed. i would spend the money on a gearbox and clutch, christ you will need one, a very good one..bernie

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i run a std head and valves, ported and polished by me, spool rods, cp pistons, tomei oil pump. 800bhp and 660 lbs of torque @ 1.5 bar boost, why waste so much money on parts not needed. i would spend the money on a gearbox and clutch, christ you will need one, a very good one..bernie

Holy Shit! That is a little hard to believe. How big is your turbo? and what Camshafts are you running?

Edited by azarawr
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i run a std head and valves, ported and polished by me, spool rods, cp pistons, tomei oil pump. 800bhp and 660 lbs of torque @ 1.5 bar boost, why waste so much money on parts not needed. i would spend the money on a gearbox and clutch, christ you will need one, a very good one..bernie

Listen to this guy :thumbsup:

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All I am doing different is running a stroker so I can push more torque out and I will probably end up running standard valves. I don't want a huge turbo because it is going to be a streeter so I willbe getting a turbo that will spool up quickly and is rated up to around 600hp, hence I have chosen the Garrett GT35R. Different applications call for different modifications, thank you for the feedback.

Aaron

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I'd just buy this car, swap the engine in and sell the car again :thumbsup:

http://www.spoolimpo...whp-r33-skyline

If only I lived in Australia, sigh....

My engine will consist of similar parts and work, but I want to start from scratch :) make my own engine and car.

Aaron :thanks:

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It will cost you twice the price of that car to build up something. Thats after all the breakages and hidden expenses. I wish I had my time over as for what ive spent on my 33 I could have bought a very modded 34 GTR. lol

$50,000 to build a streeter? slight exageration, I know of 8 second super sedan's that are built for less than that or there abouts. I know it will be expensive however, patience is a virtue and the added passion for projects such as this makes me more keen to get started. Also it is a learning experience, I am sure you learnt a lot building you r33.

Just want to let everyone know I am aware of what I am getting myself into. :)

Thanks,

Aaron

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