Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Selling my set of R32 GTR standard wheels. Come with tires but they arent much chop...

Only bought them 3-4 months ago, selling due to were going to use them on my Datsun project but going to cost a bit much for my liking to do the stud conversion/suspension setup. Can't keep to use on my gtr as they wont fit over the Brembos. Only after what I paid for them.

$600 - Feel free to msg or call me on: 0409020329

Cheers, Matt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358880-fs-r32-gtr-wheels/
Share on other sites

Haha thanks Bodie!

Rod, my Datsun project(s) are 240K coupes, restoring one back to original having only a couple of owners, one will kind of turn into a japanese style gtr 'mock up', and the other will be turned into a khana cross car, plus other one will be my donor car....

You may be in luck then, not many more sitting around down here anymore, they come up on ebay on the mainland surprisingly regularly in the last couple of months...

I did know of a pale yellow 240K coupe in Moonah. Thinking it was in need of a restore, not sure if it is still there. Send me a PM.

Bump!

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...