Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Did a search of the forums and doesn't look like anyone has experienced this problem yet.

My bootlid doesn't open anymore - via the keyfob or the actual boot release near the VDC switch. I've done a thorough search through the US G35 sites (6mt, G35 driver etc) and the most common problems are:

  • The Boot release bypass switch in the glovebox has been accidentally turned to "OFF" which means you can't open the boot via the normal switch: I don't believe our cars come with this switch, or if they do, it's post 2005 as mine (an '03) doesn't have it.
  • The fuse has blown (located behind the battery): I had a quick look and couldn't determine which fuse exactly is responsible for the boot. The descriptions on the fusebox cover were quite vague. Could anyone point to me to the correct fuse. I had a look online and I don't believe this fuse is located in the other fusebox either.
  • The wiring loom running to the boot from the front has frayed: This is most probably the cause. It appears that a lot of Infiniti models had cr*p quality wires running through the doorsills which cause it to wear excessively over time. In addition, my passenger seat has stopped going automatically to the front/back when the backrest is pushed forward. I have a feeling this is attributable to the wires that run via the doorsill to the seat too.

To add to it, the rear-seat drop release button somehow doesn't engage however far I press it down. For this reason, I can't seem to get to the emergency boot release wire in the boot which would solve half my problems.

Could anyone shed some light on this matter if they've experienced or know a thing or two about issues similar to this?

Thanks very much,

Tarun

Edited by diabolique
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359212-boot-lid-not-opening/
Share on other sites

I did tried it before. My one was 02' V35. Finally, I found that it was due to the electric wire inproperly connected during anti-theft device installation. Not sure how wire wrongly connected. But should be similar case here.

I've had the car for close to 2 years now and it has only recently stopped working. The anti-theft device (including motion sensors) were disabled prior to compliance. Whilst a plausible cause, this doesn't seem likely given the duration of my ownership and the fact that it had been working properly all this while. Thanks for the input though :)

*edit* fix that ski hole door.

In my experience with BMW's, it was most common for the wires in the rubber tube between the body and boodlid to break due to the opening and closing action of the boot. and the only way to fix it was by drilling holes in the bootlid to get it open again.

I'd be checking fuses and relays tho. just take em all out one by one - pull, check, replace. the worst thing you'll do is lose the stations on your radio.

Edited by Trick V35
  • 11 months later...

you may be able to manually open the boot right from inside at the back?

the middle gap in the rear seats, down the bottom where the gap is , there is a tag (red) that you pull and it will open the back seats, then you have access to your boot at least...

cannot find any red tag. Only can pull up the cover plate but nothing in that close area....i may take a few photos let you show me the right part after work.

not in the hidy hole but at the end between the lower seat and back rest

perfect pics here

http://g35driver.com/forums/2830547-post8.html

OMG...you help me to fix it! Thanks a lot, mate~ When pull the back rest, found an umbrella stuck between the back boot's partition and back rest. Guess it is the root cause but not really know why as there is no wire or sensor in that area. Anyway,it is a good outcome and now the back boot lid back to normal can do both by pressing remote or switch next VDC.

Good on you mate, much appreciated for your promptly help!:cheers:

Edited by jbjb
  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...