Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Bit of a pickle here, I'm ordering some Volk GTCs for my r33 gtst series 2. Now the rears are finalised and will clear brakes (19*9.5+24) but for there's a bit of an issue wit getting the right offset for the fronts.

I'm ordering through Jesse Streeter, and I got him to ask RAYS if 19*8.5+29 Face 2 (Disk A too, which is supposed to give more clearance) would clear my front brakes. Now they replied that they have never tested it, thus cannot guarantee that it will clear.

I'm just wondering if this is just due to them being conservative, or if the offsets and spoke design are actually cutting it fine?

The offsets don't seem rediculous for an r33 gtst (i had 8.5 +22 before) but it's making me wonder if it's got more to do with spoke design?

Thanks guys

Oh, also if anyone has a 33 with gtc's, feel free to post up pics and specs :) I only seen a handful on SAU, from my haphazard searching techniques

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359290-brake-clearance-issue-volk-gtcs/
Share on other sites

offset will NOT affect brake clearance.

you can have a +50 or a -50 and the spoke will be the exact same distance from the calliper, it's the actual wheel that will be in a different spot.

if anything those will probably hit the UCA...

offset will NOT affect brake clearance.

you can have a +50 or a -50 and the spoke will be the exact same distance from the calliper, it's the actual wheel that will be in a different spot.

if anything those will probably hit the UCA...

this apply for all rim designs or only some, cos my eurolines dont fit the front deepdish 9+30 but with a spacer they fit so effectively altering the offset?

if im wrong i just learnt something new

Nope Hamish is right.

A spacer doesn't change the offset, it simply move the entire rim outwards. Think about it, you are in essence adding length to your hub.

The only time offset alters brake clearance is if it starts to change the spoke angle. Ie on a TE37 with a high offset the spokes are flat, however when you go to a low offset the spokes start to bend outwards.

So to answer OP's question, you will be fine. I have GTC's and they don't even come close to hitting the brakes.

gallery_35676_3285_115345.jpg

this apply for all rim designs or only some, cos my eurolines dont fit the front deepdish 9+30 but with a spacer they fit so effectively altering the offset?

if im wrong i just learnt something new

if you had your eurolines in a lower offest you would still need to use the spacer as they just have shit brake clearance.

most jap rims are available in a few differing "faces" or spoke shapes.

by adding a spacer, yes you are effectively lowering the offset and moving the whole rim outwards, but this is not indicative of factory offsets where the correct stud length is retained...

try to think of it like this:

the spokes are always in the exact same spot, no matter what offset the rim is made in, but the position of the rim will change.

this is probably easiest to imagine with something like work meisters, as they are a 3 pc rim.

they make the spokes (all exactly the same) and then simply bolt them into differing places on the rim to create different offsets

well it changes the effective offset not the fixed offset.

ie a 9 +30 with a 25mm spacer is effectively a 9+5, i know the rim structurally isnt changing but the whole mounting position is moving outward thus giving more clearence in effect.

or no?

well it changes the effective offset not the fixed offset.

ie a 9 +30 with a 25mm spacer is effectively a 9+5, i know the rim structurally isnt changing but the whole mounting position is moving outward thus giving more clearence in effect.

or no?

that is 100% correct :)

ah thought so, soo offset can be relevant to brake clearence.

either way OP should get better sizes/offsets and let his nuts hang low.

Only when talking about spacers as you are increasing the width of the hub. You aint changing anything about the wheel.

Regardless what offset he chooses it aint going to affect brake clearance unless the spoke design changes such as my TE37 example.

Only when talking about spacers as you are increasing the width of the hub. You aint changing anything about the wheel.

Regardless what offset he chooses it aint going to affect brake clearance unless the spoke design changes such as my TE37 example.

but the point is if he uses a spacer to reduce his effective then that will improve brake clearance

Hey guys

Bit of a pickle here, I'm ordering some Volk GTCs for my r33 gtst series 2. Now the rears are finalised and will clear brakes (19*9.5+24) but for there's a bit of an issue wit getting the right offset for the fronts.

I'm ordering through Jesse Streeter, and I got him to ask RAYS if 19*8.5+29 Face 2 (Disk A too, which is supposed to give more clearance) would clear my front brakes. Now they replied that they have never tested it, thus cannot guarantee that it will clear.

I'm just wondering if this is just due to them being conservative, or if the offsets and spoke design are actually cutting it fine?

The offsets don't seem rediculous for an r33 gtst (i had 8.5 +22 before) but it's making me wonder if it's got more to do with spoke design?

Thanks guys

Oh, also if anyone has a 33 with gtc's, feel free to post up pics and specs :) I only seen a handful on SAU, from my haphazard searching techniques

They would be fine, mate. I've also got 19x8.5 +5 (Face 2) at the front of my V35 coupe and there's plenty of room. Plus I asked alot of mechanics if I can upgrade to bigger brakes with these wheels, all of them said I can. :)

Good luck.

Edited by VNS 24

are you talking about factory brakes? of course they will clear. your factor wheels are like 16X7 with +35 or +40 offset and have thick spokes and still clear the puny factory brakes. and you're worried a set of aftermarket 19inch wheels won't fit? seriously? dude you could fit your brakes and a pizza dish in there.

offset will NOT affect brake clearance.

you can have a +50 or a -50 and the spoke will be the exact same distance from the calliper, it's the actual wheel that will be in a different spot.

if anything those will probably hit the UCA...

Ahh I see what what you mean. It's just the position of the "barrel" of the rim that changes....so basically, if I'm picturing it right, having a lower offset would then give more suspension clearance? As the barrel of the rim is positioned outward more? Or is that a rookie mistake? lol

Nope Hamish is right.

A spacer doesn't change the offset, it simply move the entire rim outwards. Think about it, you are in essence adding length to your hub.

The only time offset alters brake clearance is if it starts to change the spoke angle. Ie on a TE37 with a high offset the spokes are flat, however when you go to a low offset the spokes start to bend outwards.

So to answer OP's question, you will be fine. I have GTC's and they don't even come close to hitting the brakes.

gallery_35676_3285_115345.jpg

Your car's actually the inspiration for going with GTCs, looks bloody mint....don't worry, will be going a different colour tongue.gif

ah thought so, soo offset can be relevant to brake clearence.

either way OP should get better sizes/offsets and let his nuts hang low.

Yeh the reason I used those offsets was because I thought I needed to....The next offset down is 8.5 +17, extra 13mm of dish (total 55mm) biggrin.gif. The rears in B disk 9.5+24 already give 73mm of lip, which is plenty to keep me happy lol. Next one up is 9.5+12 and 86mm...

are you talking about factory brakes? of course they will clear. your factor wheels are like 16X7 with +35 or +40 offset and have thick spokes and still clear the puny factory brakes. and you're worried a set of aftermarket 19inch wheels won't fit? seriously? dude you could fit your brakes and a pizza dish in there.

Yeh that's what I thought too. The only reason I posted this was on the advice of Jesse. He got a reply back from RAYS stating that the GT-C Face 1 19x8.5J+28 (B disk) won't clear my brakes. I think this may be more to do with the spoke design (Face 1 is flat spokes, Face 2 is concave) and the fact that it was B disk, or they could've just made a calculation mistake, I don't know. Either way, rather get a few opinions first before blowing all that cash money.

Oh and thanks for the info guys, much appreciated

Ahh I see what what you mean. It's just the position of the "barrel" of the rim that changes....so basically, if I'm picturing it right, having a lower offset would then give more suspension clearance? As the barrel of the rim is positioned outward more? Or is that a rookie mistake? lol

Yes that's correct.

Your car's actually the inspiration for going with GTCs, looks bloody mint....don't worry, will be going a different colour :P

Hahaha all good man, cheers.

Post up pictures once you have them. I want to one day piss off my rears and put some deeper dish 19" on the back for the staggered look.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for all the replies fellas. Gonna finish putting it back together and see how it handles the set up. If it starts pinging it’ll be parked.
    • Well, I can recommend the partial AV system translation CD I ordered from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. Whilst it didn't address the date issue, it has conveniently translated on-screen menu items into English, and now allows the GPS-received time to be offset in hours rather than minutes, so I can display Eastern Australian time accurately ( and bump it by another hour when daylight savings starts ).
    • Yuh, if it's 45°C outside, my car is driving in it.
    • I'd be curious to hear more. Otherwise, have you driven a modern x-trail? I wonder how it compares. Here in Australia they are/were popular for rentals and fleet vehicles. I have been in some and my impression was they are bad. But, this may have been very different in the 2000s at a good trim level. Twenty years is plenty of time to make the model worse. I do very much agree with the 2 silver cars in the garage approach. But, not driving because it's too hot would not leave a lot of time in the year for many Australians. I don't think you need to worry too much unless the car has actual issues with overheating. 
    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
×
×
  • Create New...