Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To cut a long story short, the other day I scrapped a curb trying to cut onto a roundabout. Both the lefthand side wheels hit, causing the car to lurch out, and feel like I had run over something, or someone had put on he brakes.

Took the car to a mechanic the next day and they visually inspected underneath. Nothing appeared out of place. Then took it to the tyre guy and was advised to get a full 4 wheel alignment which I did.

Fast forward a week or two, and since then no problems. However today while driving I notice the HICAS light turns on and stays on. Once I get to where I'm going I turn the car off. Then immediately turn it back on, and the light does not come on.

My head is spinning at the moment, rough day at work, havn't been paid for weeks and then this happens. I've tried reading a little on the HICAS, but wanted to ask my specific question as I have no idea what's going on.

Did my slapping the curb cause this? or does my bad car karma continue yet again. I'm not one for coincidences so feel either hte alignment did something, as I saw them tightening things under the rear axle, or who knows.

I might implode in a moment. Still havn't had lunch yet today. Arrrrh.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359465-hit-curb-hicas-light-now-on/
Share on other sites

HICAS Diagnostic Mode

There is a HICAS warning light in the instrument cluster. If it comes, on it is indicative of a problem.

R32: Check the HICAS oil level (power steering reservoir in some models, or a remote reservoir accessible from the boot)

R32 and R33: Check all HICAS electrical connections, and if the light remains on, follow the diagnostic below.

Note that having an aftermarket steering wheel fitted without the appropriate HICAS boss adaptor can also cause the HICAS system to show a fault.

Switch ignition off, transmission in neutral or auto in Park.

Start engine

Very quickly (with a couple of seconds), turn the steering wheel left and right about 20 degrees from centre five times, and then pump the brakes five times, then press the brake pedal once more this will enter diagnostic mode.

Drive forwards or backwards about 5 metres at a speed less than 10km/hr, this will enter full diagnostic mode.

The HICAS light in the instrument cluster will be flashing quickly (for normal) or will flash a code indicating any problems.

Long flash = first digit, short flash = second digit.

Diagnostics will return to normal after five minutes, or any speed over 10km/hr,

or ignition is turned off.

HICAS Diagnostic Codes 1989-1993

1 HICAS solenoid right hand

2 HICAS solenoid left hand

3 Cut off valve

4 Power steering solenoid

5 Vehicle speed sensor

6 Steering angle sensor

7 Neutral position sensor

8 (Auto) Parking brake sensor, (Manual) Clutch sensor

9 (Auto) Inhibitor switch, (Manual) Neutral sensor

HICAS Diagnostic Codes 1993-1999

11 HICAS control unit

12 HICAS motor power supply not present

13 HICAS motor output not present

21 Vehicle speed sensor not present

22 Steering angle sensor not present

23 Steering angle sensor neutral or not present

24 Rear main sensor input not present

25 Rear sub sensor input not present

31 Parking brake sensor input not present

32 (Auto) Inhibitor switch input not present; (Manual) Neutral switch input not present

33 Engine speed signal not present

nicr4wks, thanks for this info. I haven't had a chance to try this yet. However since first posting about this, the HICAS light hasn't come on again.

I went on a car cruise yesterday and drove almost 400kms and no problems. Also connected a consult cable to my car using Nissan Data Scan and checked for any fault codes. It said no faults found, and everything else seemed in order.

If the HICAS light comes on again, I'll run the diagnostic mode and cross my fingers for the best I think.

it might not be related to the curb incident.

my hicas light used to come on randomly all the time. then my steering starting getting heavy at random intervals too. then eventually the steering was heavy almost all the time.

i already had a hicas lock bar installed. so i swapped out the steering position sensor, and the hicas ecu in the boot. turned out to be the hicas ecu was the problem. all good now.

Edited by Munkyb0y

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...