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the two step voltage is 8-9v and 13-14v. so the dropping resistor is roughly dropping 5v. from the quick testing i did this only happens at idle. i think the problem with this and aftermarket pumps is that they are designed to run on battery voltage and the lower idle time voltage can stuff them up. but thats just my opinion, some people run them fine for years on the dual voltage without an issue. its up to you really, i did the wiring mod just for piece of mind.

just been reading other threads on walbros vs bosch, and man, theres so much mixed ideas out there - a fair amount of pple seem to hate walbros and have had them fail / not flowing enough etc - not sure if for real or just haters lol

About the Partially blocked BOV, it was a plate bolted inbetween where the BOV is bolted onto the return cooler pipe. It was a steel half mm thick plate with a 5-10mm hole in it, for some reason was making the BOV open at werid times under different throttle positions, thus causing the AFR to f**k up. I was at the dyno when my tuner did a run with it in then took it out and Fark me, 30rwkw increase with a 10min retune. Maybe where it was bolted in it was leaking, that could also been a possibility but check to be sure! a plate that prob cost 50c cost me 1k in tuning time.

but it doesnt make the Tututututu noises anymore lol

+ 1 for the Walbro pumps dude (gss342). Save yourself some coin and just get one.

Most of the hate is from a batch of dodgy Chinese knock-offs that were going around on Ebay for a while years ago...

People are too lazy to find out the truth for themselves so just keep parroting the same tired old lines about how crap they are.

To be honest if you buy anything on Ebay you've got no one to blame but yourself - buyer beware!

If you buy one from a local reputable dealer you will get the real thing, they come with fitting kits for many models and are a factory perfect fit. I fitted one in half an hour into my ECR33 and it was a perfect fit - no dicking around.

I track this car often with less than quarter of a tank and have never had any "fuel pickup issues". Although i'll lay money there are plenty of ametuer Bosch installs around that will have i.e. pump held on by dodgy hose clamp?

It is not a noisey pump and you cannot hear it when the engine is running only when it primes.

I have also installed a relay to give the Walbro a full 14V/15A feed from the battery which increases the flow from about 190lph to 230lph+ @ 65psi (see below).

Unless you are chasing really big numbers that is a shit load of fuel mate; these things are rated at up to 600HP (same rating as the Bosch 040 which costs more and requires cutom fitting)

Hope this helps

hp255lph.jpg

how does one secure the fule pump cradle to the tank - from pics on this forum it looks like it just slots in place?? Is it secure? Thought I would ask before attempting to change my fuel pump on sat

It just slots into place. And yes, it is secure so long as you slot it in right :) It is a factory mounting.

Hey man I owe u guys one, for all the help, thanks, gona attempt the install soon, got the pump - thought it would have the connectors on both ends of the wires but no, I still have to connect the 2 wires to the factory one to make use of the factory connector that fits into the cylindrical cap above. The other end of the wires have connectors that slots onto the pump.

Dont have solder but got 2 crimp-type metal connectors (male n female) that crimp onto the ends of each wire and click together into place. They have a blue insulating cover like crimps - but I dunno if this is safe to use in a tank of fuel!! fire etc...

Its fine. The pump should have come with its own crimp connecters. But it doesnt matter what you use.

Dont forget, the plug is submerged in fuel, and where the wire goes into the plug fuel gets in there too. Its no different.

Plus, AFAIK fuel doesnt conduct all that well.

thanks buddy, do u have to remove the rubber boots over those crimps - thats what the pump installation manual says, dunno why tho,

PS - I always thought that exposed connectors / crimps / solder = exposed current / spark (amps) through it = heat = fire in a tank of fuel ! ! How come this is not so - ie spark = fire when fuel is around isnt it?

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