Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Buy yourself and r32 RB20 thermostat from Nissan. They are 76deg.

Cheaper upgrade than a nismo one.

I have one in my NEO as the running temp was around 90 deg.

Now it sits on 80deg

Wonder if it's affected your fuel economy .. I only say because I recently had my thermostat replaced - now running rock-solid at 88-92C and my fuel economy seems to have improved. Previously it was sitting lower generally but would also spike higher on 35-40C days stuck in traffic.

Do you have evidence to back up your scaremongering?

I agree that if you're reaching 95deg after a couple of hard jaunts up to 100kmh there is an issue that likely needs to be addressed.

Telling people that reaching 95deg is OMG GOING TO REDUCE THE LIFE OF EVERYTHING THE COOLANT TOUCHES, is scaremongering.

or chemistry :whistling:

I didn't say everything the coolant touches, just almost everything. And I didn't say that magically over 95° will cause damage and under will not. I said every 10° doubles the wear. It's not like running at the designed temp there is no wear because there is still wear! Running 10° hotter doubles that wear. Running 20° hotter means x 4. (Not that the temperature is evenly distributed in the cooling system though)

Anyway....just adding a tid-bit of info for interested parties. new-engine.pdf

Edited by simpletool

or chemistry :whistling:

I didn't say everything the coolant touches, just almost everything. And I didn't say that magically over 95° will cause damage and under will not. I said every 10° doubles the wear. It's not like running at the designed temp there is no wear because there is still wear! Running 10° hotter doubles that wear. Running 20° hotter means x 4. (Not that the temperature is evenly distributed in the cooling system though)

Anyway....just adding a tid-bit of info for interested parties.

Only over a certain temperature though. It doesn't double wear when it is perfectly within it's operating temperature. Running at 95 degrees compared to 85 degrees isn't doubling the wear on everything.

Wonder if it's affected your fuel economy .. I only say because I recently had my thermostat replaced - now running rock-solid at 88-92C and my fuel economy seems to have improved. Previously it was sitting lower generally but would also spike higher on 35-40C days stuck in traffic.

Thats why the NEOs run a higher temp thermostat. The hotter they run the lower the emissons are/ the better the fuel eco is, which is good for the environment but shithouse for performance.

Most modern cars now will run between 90- 100 deg for that very reason.

Thats why the NEOs run a higher temp thermostat. The hotter they run the lower the emissons are/ the better the fuel eco is, which is good for the environment but shithouse for performance.

Most modern cars now will run between 90- 100 deg for that very reason.

I find it difficult to believe that because they're running at this higher temperature - and designed to - that they're suddenly causing much much higher rates or wear and going through things like water pumps quicker.

Pulled my water pump out for 100,000km service recently (I have no way of knowing if it was previously replaced, sure) and it looked almost like brand new.

Bubba.....seriously. :/

I've been playing with RB's for a while now dude, and I am yet to see the issues you are stating. I'm not saying they DON'T happen, I'm just saying it's probably not as dire as you are making out.

As I agreed with above, if you're hitting 95deg after a quick blat to 100kmh then yes, you have a problem but it's not going to cause everything to fall apart from pitting and corrosion.

Basically, regular fluid maintenance (which coolant is a part of, and something everybody should be doing) will help everything live a (hopefully) long and uneventful life.

Ignore your fluid changes for several years, and yes, you will likely see a massive deteoriation in cooling system components. The lack of maintenance, even at normal operating temps, is going to do a lot more damage than running it hotter but changing fluids more often.

I only stated that the reason temps are higher now days is puerly to lower emissons.

Spot on.

And conversely, you get rather poor fuel atomisation at lower temps so unless your inlet tracts and combustion chambers have been designed to run at ~60deg, nobody should be using one of those low temp thermostats.

I agree, no need for low temps thermostats.

Look, I never meant that there is some dire problem. Just thought that since we are all driving 10+ year old cars then we should be aware of increasing cooling system corrosion (heater cores for instance). It is also a problem if you don't change coolant.

People can disagree with the science if they want, I was just giving some extra info.

Edited by simpletool

+1 I'd rather go with a genuine thermostat.

chinese parts do not always mean rubbish

your joking right? not there is a need for the op to get a low temp thermostat.

but where do you think most parts come from anyway, its a simple thermostat... most car manufacturers are probably using chinese made parts... its not a precision part

chinese parts do not always mean rubbish

your joking right? not there is a need for the op to get a low temp thermostat.

but where do you think most parts come from anyway, its a simple thermostat... most car manufacturers are probably using chinese made parts... its not a precision part

wut?

I already said no need for a low temp thermostat, and I didn't say chinese stuff is shit but as far as chinese made goods go you DO pay for quality. That is the only difference in chinese made goods, from the same factory you can have good or crap stuff, depending on how much you're willing to pay for the quality control. I deal with chinese manufacturers and fabricators a fair bit (albeit for much larger scale stuff) :)

Edited by bubba

Hey all I have just purchased a an r34 sedan car has a 3076r with all supporting mods (fmic, inj, afm etc)

Also has a "heavy duty" radiator.....it has standard top tanks but core looks to be about 40 mm thick (standard is around 15mm)

when driving normaly the temp sit in the middle of the of the factory gauge (my other standard r34 sits in the same place)and the aftermarket gauge which is in the top radiator hose sits about 100 but when I drive it a little bit hard ie full boost a few times up to 100km or so it heats up to about 110 120t is this normal to have quite vast temp changes with such little hard driving or am I being paranoid?

Im only worried because my old silvia had a similar set up but ac was removed and had a thick koyo radiator temps never went above 90 on a 30 degree day no matter how hard I drove it

should I look at getting

transmission cooler

oil cooler

alloy radiator ?

any imput would be apprecated thanks Ben

who tuned the car?

what ecu? do you have a dyno sheet with afr?

might need to be richened up a bit to help keep combustion temps down

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
    • I'm not 100% how the BMW racers do it, but I know from other brands like Merc, moving, and changing the coolers is one of the things. Like getting a transcooler out from infront of the radiator to out near a wheel arch. So some of the stuff you've got crammed in the middle front, spread it out and open up where you can in the bar to get more air in to the sides.
    • Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night.   Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.
    • Just weld it onto the hot pipe. If you want it right after the turbo, put it right after the turbo. Or rip the comp cover off and drill and tap a hole into it.
    • hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet).   Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator
×
×
  • Create New...