Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes we definetly are. When I was living in perth I had my car insured for an agreed value of 26k at 1200 per year... cant remeber what the excess was but it wasnt high either.

Most insurance companies in melb wouldnt insure me for any less than 2.8 - 3k at an agreed value of 20k! even tho Im 23 and have had only two minor traffic fines.

I can understand where their coming from based on the arguments already made so Im definetly not bitching about that what does get to me tho is the price difference between east and west.

Is it just me, or are eastern staters getting shafted on insurance?  

I pay 650 a year for full comp on my R32 GTSt, in Perth. Even have my mods listed on the policy.  

Red17

man that's so good... even for a 26 year old. higher theft rates and stuff here i guess.

i also got a quote for an r32 gtst from young and cool for an 18 year old $4900 + high excess...

i'm in melbourne: full comp. for an r32 gtst for me at 18 years old from just cars. $3200 + $1800 excess... this would last for 7 years (as they drop when you hit 25) ... so 7 years of over 3 grand = 21+ thousand ****ing dollars = more than the cars worth = **** that... rather buy 2.5 skylines ha ha ha

it doesn't work that way - your rating will increase each year without an accident, so your premium will drop each year even though you are under 25... once you hit 25 it will drop even lower.

Also Murray - where/who is your insurance with for your GTR?

im 21, rating 3, and my R32 gtst is insured through just cars for $16700 agreed value, i live in a pretty low risk suburb, and have never had a speeding fine or an accident. I paid $1700 this year.

Im putting my money on ur brother paying $3500-4000.

Plus when you turn 22 with just car ur excess drop by about $400, then at 25 it drops about another $400... I think I did it the good way, slowly getting in more powerful cars without having an accident building up NCB... because that is the bottom line. That is your proof to them that you are a lower risk than someone who is the same age but drives like a dickhead.

Only problem is insurance company's assume all 17yr old drive like dickheads :rofl: ino i was pretty reckless at 17, just lucky i only had the power of an Astron 2600 under my foot ('83 Mitsubishi Sigma), not an RB20/25. I know which one s more forgiving :D

it doesn't work that way - your rating will increase each year without an accident, so your premium will drop each year even though you are under 25... once you hit 25 it will drop even lower.

Point taken... but roughly how much does the premium drop assuming i'm not in an accident every year?

Till you hit a BMW and have to pay for the damages........

3rd party (i'd be paying the excess)... then i'll be paying for my own car.

Is it just me, or are eastern staters getting shafted on insurance?

I pay 650 a year for full comp on my R32 GTSt, in Perth. Even have my mods listed on the policy.

Red17

thats the same amount i pay per year for full comp for my sII r33 GTSt!!!! agreed value is 27.5k...!!! i cant believe how much some people are paying for insurance...

and i am in melbourne!!

i got quoted $5200 for my R32 GTST after having P's for almost 1 year (was nearly 19) and i live in the country :P ...this was just cars

MAYBE he should have researched into buying a R32 a little more

Jetdat,

Your age puts you in a different league to these guys that are like 19 - 21 who have been quoted stoopid amounts for insurance. Once you hit 25 it goes down dramatically and I think 30 is another huge drop.

Terry

yeah thats true...i wasnt having a go at the boys....rather the insurance companies... i bought my line when i was 27...and i was rating 1...and i got quoted $1600 to $3500 from just cars depending on what time of the day i called!!!

unique cars were the best at $1650, but after many days of searching i ended up getting $850 from QBE...the following year premium went down to $650...

it pays to shop around....but my point is i dont trust those dodgy brothers insurance companies like just cars and unique farks...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...