Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

This is actually my car (R33 Skyline GTS-T) and this guy (FIRTY2) SAU Username...contacted me via SAU messaging service that he can fit the bodykit to my car................ So i made up my mind to go for it as this guy told me that he is spraypainter by trade and have experience in putting bodykits before and he recons he fitted and painted the bodykit on R33 skyline before as well........... But i swear to god , he did a SHIT job (wondering that how it took him 2 weeks to do this SHIT job, should be finished in 2 days) ......... Not even he spoiled my bodykit but he sprayed it like a BACKYARD JOB (Nothing was smoothed out or worked on before spraying and can see massive PAINT DROPS on rear bar and side skirts) He cut the side skirts into half and join them again to extend it but he changed the whole shape of the side skirts and got big lumps where he joined them..... Rear bar was cut into three pieces and same thing happened with it as well and the paint on rear bar is totally CRAP.......I havn't heard anyone cutting the bodykit and joining it again ....... Even after that I told him to refund my HALF MONEY as the job he did was not worth $900 but he straight away refused and told me that bring it back and he will try to fix it but NO WAY I CAN TRUST HIM ANYMORE.........I did a big mistake by trusting him first ......... I think i am the first person on this FORUM who actualy paid $900 to spoil the bodykit for my car........... should paid $400 extra to JETSPEED in CLAYTON and done it proffessionally .......... But its too late now.......... But giving you guys heads up .................. If this guy contacts you via private messaging and tell you that he can do any mods to your car then just tell him to bugger off............. NOTE - YOU CAN FIND PICS OF MY CAR ........ SEARCH FOR POST ON SAU...........R33 KIT MODIFICATION AND YOU CAN SEE YOURSELF...........THANKS

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hi Guys,

Thanks for your reply...............yeh TYPEVU & ELIPTOR..... you are right..............for $1300, I should let JETSPEED in CLAYTON do the job professionally ,,,,,,,,,, just thought to save bit of money but end up losing more .......... even my bodykit is gone.............. SO END UP AS A " BIGGEST LOSER".........

i got a headache reading that.

baseball bat perhaps?

Sounds...................................................like...................................................................................................................................................................a..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................plan :rolleyes:

hi guys,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

i am going to take my car to JETSPEED in CLAYTON and see if they can fix this big F**K up or i have to buy a NEW BODYKIT from them and let hem fit and paint.............. I WANT MY MONEY BACK FROM THIS GUY AND I TOLD HIM AS WELL BUT HE IS SO SHAMELESS .........INSTEAD OF SAYING SORRY ,,,,,,,, HE IS ACTING LIKE A SMARTA** AND HE THINKS HE DID A VERY GOOD JOB...................... WHAT A F**K**G idiot............ i RECON. PEOPLE LIKE THIS SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM SAU SITE......

1. Fitting of a bodykit + paint for $1300 is quite reasonable in comparison to what some people charge these days

2. Why would you let some random off sau do it for you without seeing any of his work , or having any idea what his skills are ? unfortunate that it didnt come out well. i remember seeing a guy put up a post the other day about how he was 'doing some work to his r33s body kit' . stating how he had cut it up in multiple places, pretty sure it was a veilside . looked pathetic , how come his topic has been deleted?

3. at the end of the day you really wont get anything back from him , definitly should of went somewhere where you know you cant point faults and have them fixed as part of an agreement etc...

HI GUYS,,,,,,,,,,,,,

SKY017................ I HAVE NO IDEA WHO DELETED THAT POST MATE........................ IT WAS THERE YESTERDAY................... IN REPLY TO YOUR COMMENT ............. THIS GUY IS NOT OFF SAU....................HE IS ONE OF THE MEMBER................. HIS USERNAME AT SAU IS.........FIRTY2............... YES ITS ALSO MY MISTAKE THAT I TRUSTED HIM WITHOUT LOOKING HIS JOB .....................BUT HE TOLD ME THAT HE DONE SOME WORK FOR MEMBERS AT SAU AS WELL.................... AND HE IS SPRAYPAINTER BY TRADE AND QUALIFIED FOR COUPLE OF YEARS NOW................. AND DO THESE KINDS OF JOB TO MAKE SOME EXTRA CASH.................. HE WAS THE ONE WHO CONTACTED ME FIRST ..............AS I POSTED ON SAU AND WAS ASKING FOR ANY GOOD BODYKIT INSTALLER ...................... I WENT TO THE JETSPEED WITH MY CAR TO SHOW THEM HIS F**k UP AND THE GUY AT JETSPEED NEARLY FELL ON THE GROUND LAUGHING AND HIS EXACT WORDS WERE .............." WAT THE F**k IS THIS"..................... MATE HE NOT ONLY DID A SHIT PAINT JOB BUT HE COMPLETELY DESTROYED MY BODYKIT WHICH CAN'T BE FIXED IN ANY CASE................... I AM BUYING A WHOLE NEW KIT FROM JETSPEED AND HE IS GOING TO INSTALL AND PAINT IT AS WELL...................... IF THIS GUY GOT ANY SELF-RESPECT FOR HIMSELF AND FOR SAU MEMBERS .......THEN HE SHOULD RETURNED MY MONEY .............NOT ALL BUT AT LEAST $600.............. BUT HE TRIED TO BE A SMART WHEN I ASKED HIM FOR MONEY AND TOLD ME TO BRING MY CAR BACK TO HIM SO HE CAN FIX IT .............. BUT I TOLD HIM STRAIGHT AWAY THAT NO WAY.......I WILL NOT LET YOU TOUCH MY CAR AGAIN ................ SO HE REPLIED THAT I DID A LITTLE RANT ON SAU ABOUT HIS WORK SO HE WILL NOT FIXING MY CAR AND NOT GIVING ANY REFUND...................

I'd never get a back yard job paint job done on my car.... Or even a work shop without an oven..

Anyway, I'd be keen to see some pictures of the f*** up...

Maybe you can gather some people to go down to his house and get something back haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...