Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1JZ in a chaser is a serious combination of luxo looks and awesome power (many over 500ps). If flicking through the pages of japanese magazines such as option, every month, is any indication - there are a lot more serious 1JZs than there are RB25s (these days). That's probably got a lot to do with the fact that a chaser is a class above a non-gtr skyline (whether you like to admit it or not). A 1JZ in a soarer is another matter altogether - but the quality of the engine remains the same.

I personally would choose the 1JZ over the RB25 but I can't say which is "better" as I have neither the mecahnical knowledge nor the experience to be able to compare the 2 fairly.

I think this comes down to what people feel is more important to them and what they like. Weather you choose a motor because of it's tuneability, how much power it'll handle on stock internals, parts availability, manufacturer.... whatever it may be.

This thread is a matter of opinions... not fact, and no one has an incorrect opinion (misguided or technically incorrect perhaps but not an incorrect opinion)

I vote the Rb25 since it has a background from nissan , but in standard form the Toyo is stronger in terms of standard with no modifcations to the motor.

You've hit the nail on the head with that last part. The main thing people seem to focus on about the 1J (and 2J) is the power it can handle. But what about the rest of it? Does the head flow the same, does it rev similarly, does it sound as good (:rofl:), does it respond the same way to mods, is it as cheap to mod, etc? If all of these are similar in both engines as I think they are, you're just back to the strength of the bottom end, which is only one part of the engine. Doesn't really put it in "a class ahead". I think it would be better to say that the RB25 or 1JZ are a class ahead of Holden's Buick 6 because there are a lot of fundamental things better on the former 2.

Sydneykid can also be quoted on these forums for saying that the Supra box is agricultural compared with the R33 GTS-t's. But man, why would you bother thinking about that when you're hung up on the bottom end :D

there was this test on zoom about placing a 50 cent coin on the cam cover of a reving 1jz to prove how smooth it was....

has anyone did it on a skyline?

That was the V8....got one and it's true :)

The 1jz definitely seems to enjoy a reputation of being equipped with a 'stronger' bottom end when compared to the RB25. Perhaps this is partly attributable to the lower compression ratio reducing the potential for detonation in comparison to the RB's higher 9:1, all other things being equal.

From what I can gather, the generally accept power ceiling on a stock RB25 is ~250kw atw, roughly 332flywheel kws without experiencing rapidly increasing probabilty of engine failure with extended use. I still think thats pretty amazing seeing factory is a relativley paltry ~187kw....

the coin test was with a 1J as well (a little party trick of mine:) the falcadore guyz freak) the 1J head can flow around 450 to 500 hp and the 2J up to around 600 without porting and mods and in the "power mode" my car shifts at 7700 so they are revvi...

the 1J and 2J are almost identical in manyspec the only major diff is better porting and 10mm longer conrods

as said above an RB25 can handle 250KW ATW which most ppl dont push too much beyond...which puts the strength of the 1J kinda out the door but its nice to know that its harder to break (get some bad tuning and you can breke it at 200kw)

as far as mods go well i find second hand goodies are harder to get that bolt straight into place but can be sourced

a massive advantage of the 1J over the RB's check out the price of one (i can get complete 1J with turbos comp ect for 1500 now thats cool for what you get hey???)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...