Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypothetical - What Kit Would You Want Copied

a31rb25

By a31rb25,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

  

11 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Mr Eps Grand Master

Mr Eps

Posted
Posted

Dan - i *think* it's called the 3910 cefiro..

it's the red and white pair of cefiros from japan with the white rims

made a lot of noise on japcar blogs late last year...

i think the rims were were origin DNA???

can anybody please post pics? they all seem to be dead links... :( there's a red one and a white one :)

stock bodied iirc!

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Mr Eps Grand Master

Mr Eps

Posted
Posted

Cheers big ears

See stock is sexy...

Make a copy of the bumper.. Tweak the mouth a bit.. Maybe turn it upside down so it doesn't "smile"

And extend the front lip / replace it with a shakotan chin spoiler...

I'd do that. Just clean with no swoop

a31rb25 Community Regular

a31rb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not a fan of the stock bar/lip at all. I can see the advantages of it on a street car though, no uber flares or superlow cop-bait features.

Quick update: Company I'm talking to is chasing down the possibility of producing a symmetrical Autech S1 kit in plastic.

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

Company I'm talking to is chasing down the possibility of producing a symmetrical Autech S1 kit in plastic.

i want in on this gangbang.

a31rb25 Community Regular

a31rb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I get the feeling I'm going to get shot if this falls through... so i'll throw it out there. NO PROMISES!!!

Personally I'm happy with a fibreglass kit if it's not going to cost a squillon dollars and there's a mold but I'll keep everybody posted on the progress.

Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
Posted (edited)

My only problem with the stock bars is that they bend inwards too much / become to narrow.

Compare inside bottom of bumper to where the doors / body are on the chassis.

Should atleast be inline with that. Or where the park light / indicator is where it joins the fender, straight drop downwards, rather than merge back in.

By comparison, all aftermarket kits overfix this by going bullshit wide with the flaring (ie Uras)

IMO This is why Autech is sought after, it keeps the car "stock looking" somewhat as Rowan suggested, and also squares up the shape of the body a bit without going over the top. Subtle yet very effective.

Edited by Nic_A31
funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

I get the feeling I'm going to get shot if this falls through...

shot? no. banned? yes. :D no pressure.

lol I need plastic cos my stock front bar (no splitter) sits 2inches off the ground at the current height. Autech is lower so it'll sit nice and low. At that height fibreglass will shatter when I go over a lane marker/rock.

Instant gentleman would be sweet, but:

1) too much work to make a mould

2) doesn't really suit the square faces of the ceffy. Chaser etc are much more rounded.

Autech's the only one that goes straight down and doesn't look mad homo by flaring out. You can buy good quality fibreglass Autech kits from aeromaster.jp pretty cheap... but it's kinda pointless.

Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
Posted

any chance of getting lip as seperate piece for standard and/or Autech?

http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n78165379&thumb=http://f5.auctions.c.yimg.jp/img129.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/7/4/5/8/hitsstyle-thumb-123280648947578.jpg&title=A31

toffy Veteran

toffy

Posted
Posted

I'd like to see Autech series 1, "widened" mouth, symmetrical hole on the drivers side,

and something I've always wanted to see....... what about incorporating the factory side illumination lamps?

^^ this is a good idea , i wouldn't go too much wider with the 'mouth' probably 3-5cm each way?

a31rb25 Community Regular

a31rb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Widened mouth? How big are the coolers you're running to need a widened mouth?

I'll ask about the add on lip next time we speak but i'm going with the symmetrical Autech bar for now as it's simple (which hopefully means cheap). Baby steps, IF that works out then I'll start looking at other stuff like the lip, roof spoiler and so on.

Edited by a31rb25
funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

and something I've always wanted to see....... what about incorporating the factory side illumination lamps?

If this happens and I get one, I'm just gonna cut mine to put the lamps in... should be pretty straightforward.

a31rb25 Community Regular

a31rb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Latest news: For legal reasons any design has to be different, so...... an Autech bar with a symmetrical intake would be enough. As would the TBO bar with a less pronounced full lip (doesn't recess at the mouth). Same goes with any other kit pieces.

Plastic molding is not a financially viable option - one place was happy happy to do it but wanted $25K up front to make the mold - metal molds, plastic injection. On top of that would be materials, labour, etc.

Still waiting to hear back about FRP. Fibreglass is looking like the best option at the moment.

Ideas on tweaks for these rear bars? (I've chosen these for ease of molding)

1)

400x350-2010072900061.jpg

2)

600x400-2008102200443.jpg

3)

aeromasterjp-img600x450-1189240018a31t1rok.jpg

Edited by a31rb25
Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
Posted

I prefer the last Autech pic. With the "bubbles" around the number plate section.

I know, all you haters hate them on the front and rear bars, but stfu, I reckon it looks better with them,

As for tweaking them, I dunno...I'll let others decide.

toffy Veteran

toffy

Posted
Posted

I prefer the last Autech pic. With the "bubbles" around the number plate section.

I know, all you haters hate them on the front and rear bars, but stfu, I reckon it looks better with them,

As for tweaking them, I dunno...I'll let others decide.

+1 , Make the D part beside the number plate slightly shorter (or the number plate hole bigger to accomodate adm numberplates) and make the exhaust cut out wider . AAAaaand if you look at a stock rear bar , they have a groove just under the tail lights , you could add that in?

Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
Posted

Combine both those Autech bars.

The S2 is flat at the bottom, the S1 (1st pic) isn't.

I dont like how the S1 flares on the sides as it heads back to the wheel arches though.

Keep it even along the sides, have that cut out in the middle rear, THAT, on a series 2 Autech.

If its even, it'll make the whole car look better when slammed. A bumper that is uneven in edge (ie S1 Autech, Uras, Dianna, etc) looks shitty. More "boxed" shape like S2 Autech. Does that even make sense?

As Toffy said, widder to accomodate Aus plates.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...