Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I asked this on the Canada forum but I thought I should ask this here aswell:

I'm hoping someone has some experience with this...

I have a pair of R34 N1 turbos (14411 AA402), one in great condition and one that is very tight. No damage on the compressor wheel or turbine. I was looking at replacing the CHRA on the tight turbo but prices are outrageous and to be honest I'm unsure that I can find the right part. However, I also have a pair of regular R34 GTR turbos (14411 AA300) that are both in great condition. I am wondering if it is possible to use one the CHRAs from the regular R34 GTR tubos and replace the turbine/compressor wheel from the N1 turbos. Does anyone know for sure if this is possible? If it's possible it sure would be great lol.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360848-r34-n1-chra-same-as-r34-gtr-chra/
Share on other sites

CHRA: 14411

It's the same. So of course it is possible...

However you are going to put steel wheels onto a 10yr+ old cartridge. In all honesty that's an absolute waste of time.

Going to all the effort to change turbos and then having two in varying condition on the motor...

And ole saying the poor man pays twice rings very true here. If just one fails you are going to spend more than you would have initially.

CHRA: 14411

It's the same. So of course it is possible...

I dont think that is the CHRA number because if so then the oem R32/R33, Nismo R32/R33 etc would have ball bearing cores too as they carry this same 5 digits at the beginning of the number.....and we all know for a fact they are journal

I think the chra is the other number under this number on the tag...???

Thanks for the replys.

The reason I'm doing this is because I'm doing a major engine rebuild and couples with some other things I have going on right now new turbo(s) arn't in the budget right now. Within the next year I hope to have new turbo(s).

Don Dada is correct that all the GTR turbos started with 14411.. So, I'm not sure that could be the CHRA number. Although, it sure would be great if it was haha.

I think the ball bearing Garretts are turbo number 702987-3 with cartridge number 446179-42 . They seem to be an OE spec turbo , well wheels anyway , and the thing to know is if their turbines are ceramic .

A .

Edited by discopotato03

Im in a similar situation except mine are hks

First thing you have to figure out would be if garrett sell N1 chra's. Easier said then done. Matching wheel size's is one thing, profile is another.

You cant really ring someone up as I doubt they will know for sure.

If you use turbos that are slightly different it could surge.

You may or may not be able to get the turbo rebuilt. As far as I know Garrett Australia can balance them but rebuilding it seems costly and

most companies will suggest replacing the core. If it doesnt spin easily, it might be the bearing, but could also have damaged the shaft.

Best bet would be to send your turbo away and get them to quote on repair and let them know what it is and that its a PAIR. You might

get lucky and after they strip it and balance it could come up good (debris in bearing etc). Its a gamble cos it could come back stuffed

and you still need to pay for labour

Or you could look for another R34 N1 turbo

Or you could sell the one good one you have to recoup some losses and buy another pair

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...