Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone have a double din installed or have any recommendations? Anything I need to consider when installing one of these into the car?

Might have to save up for this one...

Alpine INA-W900E installed in my GT-R

* NAVTEQ in-dash GPS - very detailed - large screen

* DVD or Video CD or Music CD

* USB

* Plays Windows Media

* MP3

* AAC

* iPod/iPhone Connect with display of which songs are coming up next as well as details of song playing

* AUDYSSEY Multeq XT

* Dolby

* dts 2.0

* Bluetooth

* Parrot

* Auto dimming display when lights are turned on yaddayadda

Someone has been selling 1 or 2 in F/S section as I recall.

Downside was, it took 2 hrs to install + an extra guy to help out now and then

Older model brand name units seem to go much cheaper over in the US than they do locally, but a question sapphiregraphics might have the answer to, how different is the US FM band to ours? Are we likely to miss out on any stations by buying a US headunit?

The US fm bands are the same as OZ, in japan they use a different freq modulation. which is why jap cars with jap radios have band expanders

japanese radios go from 76–90 MHz

Just about Everwhere else 87.5 to 108.0MHZ

some older russian countries had another band 65.8–74 MHz but don't think you will find a decent radio from russian..haha

it gets very confusing but it works on a sub carrier, which is why you can sometimes hear stations off the normal freq range. depending on weather etc.

in usa we used to pick up a radio station in finland on weird weather days, , and it is nearly half a world away. its called Radio wave propagation

Explanation of how it works

oh and in some UK countries they plan on shutting off FM analog transmissions in 2015 so DAB will it. but the world ends in 2012 anyhow ...haha

Edited by sapphiregraphics

I'm actually after something very similar, except in a single DIN. I have a M35 Stagea with the single DIN gauges, so I'd prefer to keep the gauges and replace the deck with another single DIN.

The only unit I've found with my desired bluetooth, iPod, and DVD is a JVC AVX-77 (http://www.ryda.com.au/JVC-KD-AVX77-In-Dash-DVD-Monitor-p/kdavx77.htm). Ryda are cheapest at $800, but I'm not 100% on the completely touch screen interface.

Does anyone know of anything else?

Alpine is so sexy

Is it face-detachable?

or is there any 2-din headunit with face-detachable?

Umm...

don't think so. can't find it.

You can adjust the monitor viewing angle - cool ergonomically

The verticle perimeter is brushed titanium look, so it perfectly matches the R34 GT-R console.

  • 3 weeks later...

Picking up one of these from JB tomorrow :D:D

Hopefully it fits ok as it appears to be fairly bulky at the back. Normally I would do it myself but if I get a 'pro' to do it least I get the warranty. Anyone had fitments done by JB?

If only Chris' workshop was closer >_<

Tons of features on the JVC unit > so if the picture is clear and it functions without any glitches, you'll be very happy.

JB installed a d/din Pioneer unit in a Japanese daily we had, it he (at Penrith) did a good job with no console scratches.

sonnyQ are you getting the 30% discount???

how much is it???

my plans of alpine w407 have fallen thru cos the USA store ... has... umm..

you know the US currency conversion how us aussies are like "yeah woo shop up BIG"

well .. this also means their buy-in price has exploded in a huge way...

they ran out of stock of the unit, and to re-fill the stock means their buy in price is now $520 USD

poor buggers :(

so they wont be stocking it any more..

so can you tell me a bit about your new unit pleasE??? what's it sound like?

Picking up one of these from JB tomorrow :D:D

Hopefully it fits ok as it appears to be fairly bulky at the back. Normally I would do it myself but if I get a 'pro' to do it least I get the warranty. Anyone had fitments done by JB?

If only Chris' workshop was closer >_<

clint,

come for a drive. JB tend to use whoever they can get. so if its a ex strathfield employee with a year under the belt then that's what you get. food for thought.

guys, getting it for $630 :cheers: with the ipod video lead thrown in. I have to get it from the Ipswich store, ONLY store in QLD that has it in stock as it is a discontinued model. That is an amazing price for the features on this unit.

Terry - picture qual and touch interface are the only feautures that remain to be seen, but JVC is usually good right?

eps - sale is ony until sunday in my area, so get onto it today!

Chris - i'm not in a big rush to install it so I might come for a squirt, i'll let you know

Edited by sonnyQ

that shop has been around forever. I like the meets he organizes where anyone can jump on the db meter, although haven't seen one in ages.

it just depends how long I can bear to see the unit sitting on my desk doing nothing :whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...