Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I have decided to change my suspention over from a JIC coilover kit to a Bilstein and spring combo . My only problem is what springs to use - Eibach or Kings . The spring rates are about the same the only BIG differnace is that the Kings are liner at the front and progressive at the rear . The Eibach springs are liner all round . I like the concpet of the progressive springs for ride comfort but at the same time a little uneasy by the induced body roll of the top soft springs until enough pressure is put on the spring and the hard spring is hit . Going into a corner you never know what your going to get - the soft or the hard . also the car is Street only

would love hear of peoples view or experiences with either of the two springs

thanks

Edited by buzzboy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361719-eibach-vs-king-springs/
Share on other sites

if its a street only car then honestly your not going to notice any difference between the eibach's or kings.

Most people dont tune suspension with progressive rate springs properly which is why they are unpredictable.

If you select the spring and shock properly when the car enters the corner and weight is put into the spring the progressive section of the spring should be compressed and using the higher rate.

If you have the wrong spring you will end up 3/4 (just an example) into the lower rates travel at entry and reaching the higher rate at midcorner (if you have the grip) then coming back to the lower rate at the exit. This does become unpredicatable.

Saying that if you are pushing hard enough on the street to worry about what the spring is going to do entering a corner you should be on the circuit instead.....

Nothing worng with a progressive rate spring, I dont persoanlly like using them for anything other than a comfortable road car though, they have many adavantages and disadvantages which are far behond a road car, they do however have a valid place in road cars for ride comfort.

If it matters id take eibachs or QA1 springs over kings any and every day.

the king springs are only progressive to keep the springs captive

I had a set of king springs before, with the weight of the car, the progressive section of the spring should close up, like helper springs, therefore the effective rate is still the higher rate

  • 3 weeks later...

Ive got Bilsteins with Kings and they are perfect. You cant feel any transition between soft and hard as you explained so dont worry about that haha.

The only difference is that the car is nice and smooth when daily and then handles real nicely once pushed through corners.

Go the kings if daily and they perfectly fine to be used on track too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...