Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want to rule out spark plugs being part of my problem of engine not starting. How do you check that there is spark on a RB26? I have taken the cover off, but then the amplifier thing that connects to the leads isnt screwed down and grounded. Does this have to be grounded if I try cranking the engine?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362123-how-do-you-check-plugs-are-sparking/
Share on other sites

ground the metal part of the coilpacks (the part with the screw holes) and you allso need to ground the thread on the spark plug...

EDIT: ohhh ur talkin about the ignitor on early rb26's? square bit at the back of the valley cover?? if so just earth it anyways...

EDIT: use some jumper leeds or any cable you have lying around to ground those 3 things

Edited by BrynDETT

Unbolt all the coil packs, take the spark plugs out (or buy a spark plug tester from repco etc) push the spark plugs into the coilpacks and plug the coilpacks in. Make sure the ignitor is plugged in. Rest the thread of the spark plug against an earth(a non painted metal part of the engine) and get some one to crank the engine. U will see the spark jump from the centre electrode to the earth electrode of the spark plug.

First 2 plugs sparking, do I have to check the rest? It is demonstrating sparkage and i am worried about draining the battery cranking so many times without it starting to recharge.

now check for fuel flow, put all the spark plugs back in, take off the fuel line from the fuel filter to rail and put into a empty coke bottle, turn key to on and see if fuel flows into the coke bottle for 4 seconds,

Ok do that tomorrow, its too dark outside now and I am getting attacked by mozzies and giant grasshoppers that came out of nowhere. Had a quick check of the plug going to the fuel pump with multimeter as shown in the repair manual. Getting battery voltage when ignition is on, but when cranking its getting about 11v. Is this bad or should it still start off that?

Yeah exactly, which hose is which on the fuel rail? I assume the one that goes into the regulator is the main line, what is the other one that is right next to it and kind of follows the same line is that a recirculating line or something?

ive got an inline spark plug tester, its the shit

EDIT: yeah thats the line. if your getting fuel flow the next step would be to check injector pulse, i got an ABW kit from coventry's for cheap and it tests every type.

if you have spark, fuel and injector pulse unfortunately the next thing to check is compression :(

Edited by jimmys-33T

Had no luck getting the fuel line off, its too stiff and there is like an inch of room around it. Is there another spot I can get at it? After that failed I wanted to check the ecu and after taking it out I discovered 3 wires cut. That seems bad, but when I looked up the ecu pinout it didnt seem as detrimental. Looks like wires for pin 40, 59 and 53 are cut, which are 40-nothing? 59- control unit power supply and 53- vehicle speed sensor (the wire has bullet connectors but they were not connected) Shouldnt these wires be attached? I am guessing the vehicle speed sensor is cut to stop the speed limiter. The car has run without these being connected so do these need connecting?

post-63044-0-21409800-1303982273_thumb.jpg

Also I got a ecutalk unit, its pretty cool for the things it displays. Plugged it in today, no faults/errors. But i took a pic of the display, are the afm supposed to be greater than 0 when the car isnt running? I wouldnt think so!

(edit) i just read that its normal to have a small reading on the afms

post-63044-0-57267000-1303982388_thumb.jpg

Edited by levizzle

you really need to get the fuel line off, follow the one from the top of the fuel filter, the other end, then disconnect it there, undo the clamp, then try and twist the hose over the pipe so that it breaks the bond, then put the hose into the coke bottle as previously discussed and turn the key to on and see if the pump is flowing.

you really need to get the fuel line off, follow the one from the top of the fuel filter, the other end, then disconnect it there, undo the clamp, then try and twist the hose over the pipe so that it breaks the bond, then put the hose into the coke bottle as previously discussed and turn the key to on and see if the pump is flowing.

So I took the line off coming from the top of the fuel filter, it started leaking out like a siphon so I lifted higher to stop it leaking. Turn the ignition to on, no fuel coming out, turn to cranking, no fuel coming out. Dead pump is hopefully the one cause to this. So if I got voltage at the plug going into the pump, it wouldnt be caused by a fuse or anything would it. So anyone got a cheap gtr fuel pump?

So I took the line off coming from the top of the fuel filter, it started leaking out like a siphon so I lifted higher to stop it leaking. Turn the ignition to on, no fuel coming out, turn to cranking, no fuel coming out. Dead pump is hopefully the one cause to this. So if I got voltage at the plug going into the pump, it wouldnt be caused by a fuse or anything would it. So anyone got a cheap gtr fuel pump?

Why replace a 20 year old fuel pump with another 20 year old fuel pump?

Geez someone is taking it a bit too serious, I was joking, but you can replace a flat tyre with a bald one if it gets u home, not the best but it does the job. And yeah I am getting a walbro, hopefully monday or tuesday it should arrive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...