Jump to content
SAU Community

Strange Surging Problem


NYL83R
 Share

Recommended Posts

Just a thought but have you checked your coil packs. Your symptons sound silimar to my surging problem some time back.

Changed them out & no problems since.

Just my 2c worth. Cheers Shane

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah I did check the coil packs when i changed the plugs. When I had my Skyline, I had a hesitation problem when the car reved to around 5k, that ended up being hairline cracks in teh coil packs... but this problem is different.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To eliminate other problems and confirm its a 4WD system issue, do the 2WD trick. It's on here somewhere, from memory unplug the atessa bleed connector, start car, pump brake pedal 5 times. 4WD light on the dash should constantly flash... There's no need to remove driveshafts etc. If the problem is still there, its not the 4WD system.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the help guys. hmm I don't hear any clicking paul, would it be a noticable clicking when the problem starts? Yes the whole car jerks slightly. It could be my imagination, but since having this problem the car seems to have slightly less power overall? i'll investigate further. Could very well be the k&n oiled filter i have, after hearing what people are saying. I've had the filter in for a couple of years though before it started having this problem

I'll try unplugging the 02 sensor if you think it might help bob, otherwise I will take you up on that offer please. can you pm me bank details. cheers

PM sent

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried 2WD mode on the weekend, and no change.... although probably unrelated, the car seems to be having the surging problem at lower speeds now (60-70km/h) this was still after I put it back to 4WD. Problem seems to be getting worse.

I guess next thing to try is another AFM (from Bob. cheers :)) and replace the k&n filter for a paper one. Damn I hope that works.....

Edited by NYL83R
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey mate I'm not sure what troubles you are having but my stagea was choking and not running good. I just it it back yesterday and it is flying. The problem i had was the spark plugs weren't put in the right amount. I cleaned my afm last week and that wasn't he problem. So maybe get ur sparks in properly. are u loosing boost? Got a gauge?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

changed the AFM and Air filter to a paper type.... no change, problem remains.... I've already tried puting it in 2wd mode, but i'm still thinking there could be something wrong with the atessa maybe? any ideas on how I could check it, or who I would take it to?

Edited by NYL83R
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you succeed with the 2wd trick? If not its just 4 bolts to drop the front driveshaft and pull the fuse.

If you are really keen you can pull the lining out of the left rear of the boot. The Atessa computer sits between the small hatch in the side and the lh strut tower and has a blinking light to display fault codes. I don't know why Nissan installed it so you can't read the fault codes - in the Skylines its in the boot under the parcel shelf where you can see it.

Did you try disconnecting the O2 sensor? Just pull the plug off.

Maybe there is cr*p in the sock on the fuel pump. Either you can pull it out and have a look or if you have access to a workshop they should be able to test fuel flow with a meter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i tried 2wd, but did not drop the front driveshaft... according to the instructions (unplug the atessa bleed connector, start car, pump brake pedal 5 times)

where is the 02 sensor?

interesting that the atessa is a seperate computer with seperate fault codes... could be why no faults were found when i did a code check?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the S2 it is supposed to be not necessary to drop the front drive shaft - I only mentioned it in case you couldn't get the other way to work. The O2 sensor should be on the front (exhaust) pipe just below the turbo. There is a bracket to hold the wiring and if you follow the wiring about 150mm back from the top of the sensor you should find a plastic plug. Just disconnect it - no harm will come to your engine -and see if it makes any difference. If it does there is a "how to replace" in the DIY section above and you can get replacements from Kudos - link in the DIY sticky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My car behaved in a similar manner for awhile (S1). I'd feel a slight hesitation at constant 100kph every so often, wtf is that motor or drivetrain? I'd think to myself. One day not long after the gremlin made it's appearance. I was slowing down for an intersection and felt the car engine brake more for a moment then off again. The 4wd light came on and about a km later limp mode kicked in. Oh dear I gots me a piece of shit I thought ( I didn't know about this feature).

To cut a long story short it was just low on atessa fluid, the greatest discovery being that like an auto trans you gotta check level with motor running. I get the feeling the car applies a bit of front drive on deceleration, a little free braking as it were. Hence the problem setting off the alarm bells when front drive would apply then change it's mind about it. Lack of clutch pack pressure I guess.

Please disregard all of the above if you have covered this base, just don't like to see ya suffer. I have a low tolerance for the bastards misbehaving.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the suggestion. the car did go into 'limp mode' a while back (seemed to be stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear) It hasen't done it again since so i thought it was just a one off thing....

Attesa fluid level hmmm. I have not checked that... where is it located and what do you top it up with? In the meantime I'll do some searching and sus it out...

found this interesting video about the Attesa System:

Edited by NYL83R
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Attessa reservoir is in the boot right-hand side - open the door and fill while running. If it has gone out of sight the system needs bleeding (one nipple behind the transfer case the other on top of the diff ...not on the diff itself but on the attessa pump).

Use high quality (I use synthetic) atf fluid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

thought i would give a quick update... I bought a Consult adapter and conected to my laptop.... And got a fault code of 33 (Heated oxygen sensor) so looks like that is the problem. Buying one today to find out if that solves the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

SO.... hoping someone can help me find the right/best price 02 sensor... I've been reading up in the threads already made, but am a bit confused....

do i need to buy this one?

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-lambda-oxygen-sensor-genuine-nissan-skyline-r34-25gt-25gt4-25gtt-stagea-wgc34-rsv-stagea-wgnc34-rsfour-series-p-187.html

or can i get this one?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-3-Wire-Universal-Oxygen-Sensor-O2-Easy-Fit-Kit-/120737660086?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1c867cb6#ht_3120wt_1244

or in the other 02 sensor thread guys were talking about a $77 NTK one from kudo?

Edited by NYL83R
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Its been a while, but thought I would share the fix to this problem in case anyone else was suffering from the same issue.

Basically it was the tyres. I had miss-matched tyres front and rear (fronts matched. rears matched) same profile (205/55/16) but different brands. I was trying to get by on 2nd hand tryres till I could get a new set of rims.... But I ended up putting 4 new tyres on, and bingo the problem went away. Better smoother exceleration also.

Was suggested to me by SOB that it could be the tyres... cheers mate

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • He could just take the Bogan Cruise Ships setup... Already got a good setup, with blower, the auto was rebuilt too wasn't it? Perfect time for him to upgrade the tailshaft, diff, and axles...    And wouldn't need to waste money on redoing the Commos seats, as he could just buy race seats for the 5...   As a highly modded car he could avoid the ability to give it away to offspring too when they crash their cars...
    • It's really interesting how much it's moving left to right, and doesn't appear to be actually spreading. For this to be moving left to right, without flaring, means unequal forces being applied until equilibrium hits in one way or another.   Reasons it could be unequal; Piston sizes left to right are different sizes. Only minute differences. Pistons moving on different planes. That is, are they moving directly straight at each other, or slightly out of alignment. The fluid is restricted getting to one side.   Some tests you could do. Pull the bleeders on the left and right, fit each side with pressure gauges. It will allow you to make sure pressure is equal (and really, it should be as fluid flow is so damn low, so fluid flow dynamics shouldn't come into it).   With the calipers off the car, have both sides retracted as far as possible, measure very very accurately (think micrometre) distances between opposing pistons in four different spots per set of pistons. Firstly, on each opposing pistons pair, the measures on for different spots should be equal. If it's not, and especially if one spot appears to actually get closer compared to another, the pistons aren't aligned, and now the forces left to right won't be equal, as they're the forces fighting each other.   You can also pull all the pistons out, and very very accurately measure the diameter of them. If they're not equal left to ight in the pairings, and especially if the area of the pistons on one side is different to the area on the other overall, it'll all be out of whack.   My bet, is shit QC in making sure the pistons move in the same plane left vs right. Some minor out of square machining, and nothing will line up, things will want to move around.  
    • Whilst putting a V8 in a MX5 would be fun, it would negate the whole cheap to run fun daily that the MX5 will be used for If I wanted a faster little convertible I would have got a engine check light, I mean a BMW Z4 M, but going off the issues that the guy at work who recently got one is having, it is lucky I didn't  Meh, horses for courses, the Bogan Cruise Ship is my go to for some horse torques    
    • I reckon give him a few months, LSX swap would be good
    • Mark needs to get bored at work and order things on here...
×
×
  • Create New...