Jump to content
SAU Community

Troubleshooters, Slipping And Vibration Feeling On Full Lock Turns

CruisingFast
 Share

Recommended Posts

CruisingFast Collaborator

CruisingFast

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

About two weeks ago I started getting a problem where If I was stopped and was in or close to full lock and would accelerate left or right I could feel something wasn't right, it was like the front wheels were skipping or slipping and not making traction, some vibration like shuddering throiugh the steering wheel whilst this happened......faster speeds and easier corners were okay and straight line was no problem.

At first I thought it might have been cvboots as I read other advice on the forums.... I'd just bought a set of coilovers and decided to book it into Fulcrum as the problem gradually got worse and was happening without full lock and on longer corners, I could even feel it in reverse when parking the car when in the same full lock slight to moderate acceleration and that feeling mentioned above.

In last two weeks I've had both cvboots reconditioned, coilovers fitted and bushes replaced as these had also worn out. It felt on first inspection that the problem had gone away, last night I took the car out and was happy with the way everythig was going then went to test things again from stationary full lock turns and there it was again, not as bad as before but you could definately feel it. I'm no mechanic and I only know what I learn from reading mostly but from what I've gathered this sounds most likely that the front diff has packed it in. The other thing which is less likely is the ATTESSA playing up though I would've thought if this was the case it would be playing up outside of the full lock scenario too.

If anyone has experienced something like this before let me know. Whilst I'm getting a rebuild done the front diff will be an easy job to do, just wanting to get some advice if there's anything else these symptoms could be pointing too.

Cheers,

Adam

CruisingFast Collaborator

CruisingFast

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

No I'm pretty certain it's front diff... My car is in the shop again getting a forged motor rebuild and new front and centre diffs. The problem was there before lowering, with driveshafts and suspension parts done it really only leaves the diffs as far as I can tell.

I'll know more in a couple weeks, I told the shop what was going on and hope to never experience it again, I've pushed the car at different times and never felt anything like it before, the handling has been exceptional up to that first experience a few weeks back... will post an update once the rebuild work is done.

Edited by CruisingFast
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

No I'm pretty certain it's front diff... My car is in the shop again getting a forged motor rebuild and new front and centre diffs. The problem was there before lowering, with driveshafts and suspension parts done it really only leaves the diffs as far as I can tell.

I'll know more in a couple weeks, I told the shop what was going on and hope to never experience it again, I've pushed the car at different times and never felt anything like it before, the handling has been exceptional up to that first experience a few weeks back... will post an update once the rebuild work is done.

You don't have a centre diff. Are they rebuilding your transfer box and if so what bits are they replacing or upgrading?
Matty Sherlock Experienced

Matty Sherlock

Posted
Posted

Clutches in the transfer case are slipping due to the camber of the road and other things. No biggy, my 32 hasn't done it for ages and has been running sweet.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...