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R34 Gtt Vct Stopped Working...any Ideas?

BL35ED

By BL35ED,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

You don't need it but you definitely want it.

You should get your tuner to hook up the consult and in the active test section they can activate it and deactivate it to see if the solenoid is working. You can hotwire it to test the solenoid also (direct from a 12v source)

If it's not wiring or solenoid problem, then the Nistune is to blame

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted (edited)

The tuner had to change the values in the Nistune software to get it working (more accurately, switching at correct rpm) again after changing from a PFC.

Beats me what the settings were before and after but it didn't seem to switch at 1500rpm but more like 3000rpm using the default settings for a neo.

VTC TP cut value was changed from 56 to 38. I am not sure if there was another issue.

Edited by wolverine
dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
Posted

does VCT make that much of a difference?

had an issue with my VCT when activated, would make a grinding noise? (according to my tuner that is) so he deactivated it.

stumped to why it would make the noise tho.

im running without VCT atm and its fine.

no issues at all.

ive been told without VCT you lose some power, havent seen any dyno graphs to confirm this tho lol

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

Yeah i say try fix it, it is definitely noticeable once you get it back.

Might as well whore a picture for you, this was a recent tune on my R33. We were trying to find the best place to have it switch off, tuned it all the way with it on, then all the way off to see where the curves intersect. Run out of fuelpump hence why they dont meet in this curve :P

overlayvct-novct.jpg

As you can see there is a substantial difference!

But, once the fuel was sorted, in my case it seemed to make the most difference in torque and power switching off at 4900rpm.

The other thing we changed was, we set it so it wont turn on untill the ECT is above 50'C. Cos when the car was idling it would click on and off and f**k with the AFR's and ignition. Im unsure if the stock ECU does a temperature activation too? Im guessing it might seeing as its oil operated?

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

The other thing we changed was, we set it so it wont turn on untill the ECT is above 50'C. Cos when the car was idling it would click on and off and f**k with the AFR's and ignition. Im unsure if the stock ECU does a temperature activation too? Im guessing it might seeing as its oil operated?

Stock Neo ECU needs to see 70deg to enable VCT.

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

Ah! Good to know. In that case i might up my setting 10-20'C too.

I just had another thought, i dont know why it popped into my head, but is the NEO VCT infinitely adjustable? Kind of like the IVTEC in K20a Hondas?

Like with the R33, its just on and off. No other variables. But for some reason im thinking the NEO VCT is also load sensitive too? Or have i got it mixed up with something else?

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Soooo noone actually has any idea what the problem could be? Example im thinking stock ecu but not sure anyone can shed some light?

Suggestions were made, you have offered no further input

Also, my crystal ball stopped working last week

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