Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb30 Build

Chi100188
 Share

Recommended Posts

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

He would be talking about RPM, and my guess would be about 6k rpm?

See I think thats misleading as the rpm behaviour is 1-2,000rpm difference between 1st gear and 4th gear. So if the dyno shows the power dropping off above 6,000rpm in 4th gear, it might drop off at 6,500 in 3rd and not drop off at all in 1st and 2nd gears as its above the rev limiter.

So if your mostly in 3rd and 4th gears you will notice the power dropping off whereas if you drive on the street and mostly in 1st and 2nd under power then you wont notice it at all.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

See I think thats misleading as the rpm behaviour is 1-2,000rpm difference between 1st gear and 4th gear. So if the dyno shows the power dropping off above 6,000rpm in 4th gear, it might drop off at 6,500 in 3rd and not drop off at all in 1st and 2nd gears as its above the rev limiter.

So if your mostly in 3rd and 4th gears you will notice the power dropping off whereas if you drive on the street and mostly in 1st and 2nd under power then you wont notice it at all.

WOT is WOT, the power will still drop off no matter what gear it is in.

Youre right in saying you might not notice it as much in 1st gear, but it still happens.

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

Yeh but you don't build high powered cars to race on the street...

The thread starter said:

"Hey guys heres my build plan would this be adequate just for using as a street car"

If someone wants a high powered car to use on the street I think thats their choice. And if they decide to, surely you want to use the power at legal street speeds.

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

WOT is WOT, the power will still drop off no matter what gear it is in.

Youre right in saying you might not notice it as much in 1st gear, but it still happens.

How can you say that WOT is WOT. 1st example, full boost will be later in 1st gear then it is in 4th gear etc. The whole turbo powerband shifts to the left as you get higher up in the gears (and hence speed). Yes its not huge but can be 1-2,000rpm between 1st and 4th which is considerable.

So for a street car that will do most accelerating sub 100km/h I would choose the GT30 0.82. Track car and drag are different scenarios.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

Lol even though it is a street car, he will no doubt give it squirts here and there, probably race people as well because lets face it, you get amped up on occassion and it happens.

But you are right, the gt30 would be the best pick. It is a good responsive setup that nets good low-midrange power.

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

Lol even though it is a street car, he will no doubt give it squirts here and there, probably race people as well because lets face it, you get amped up on occassion and it happens.

But you are right, the gt30 would be the best pick. It is a good responsive setup that nets good low-midrange power.

Haha no doubt he will still give it squirts and race people. But most street races and street squirts involve a low to moderate starting speed and most only last 1-2 gears. Meaning that the more responsive car will jump out in front and make it hard for the less responsive but higher peak power car to come back before you run out of road or find traffic. Another consideration is traction, the GT30 will be responsive and also progressive in the way the power/torque hits so you will have maximum chance of maintain traction compared to the GT35 which will be more likely be wait wait wheelspin especially at lower street speeds.

But if you are a nutcase and want to do really silly stuff on the street etc etc then go GT35 lol

The other consideration is getting your setup really sorted out. You will find most cars with lots of modifications will take a number of fixes and improvements to get the most out of the turbo. A larger turbo will require more and more things to be sorted to actually reap the rewards of the larger turbo. There are countless setups that end up only running the power of a GT30 with a GT35 due to being out of budget or frustration at not being able to find the answer. This is poor as you have less response for similar top end. Whereas it will be a lot easier to get close to max out a GT30 which will provide excellent response.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • BOLGE
      R34 Plug Identification

      By BOLGE · Posted

      Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...