Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so my computers getting to be a bit of a dinosaur and both my hard drives are all full once again, both IDE drives.

now i've got a sata drive i want to put in it for additional storage, is this possible?

my mobo supports both IDE and SATA.

i want to leave my other hard drives alone, i dont want to change the boot drive or anything like that. i simply want to use the sata drive as storage. can it be done? my bios has a variety of settings regarding ide and sata stuff but i dont know exactly what i'm doing there. help?

chur

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363498-can-i-combine-idesata-in-one-system/
Share on other sites

what brand HDD and what OS are you running?

if your running XP and you have/are going to buy a Weatern Digital HDD . you'll need to download their partition alignment tool before you put any data onto the new HDD.

Edited by liger

depending on the mobo, chipset etc - it wont be possible.

I've seen weird shit happen on older gen mobo's with IDE and SATA connected @ the same time.

Given price of a 1TB SATA drive (under $100), its easier just to buy one than deal with the issues sometimes.

na its win 7. the drive starts up but then doesn't register and turns off again within about 10-15 seconds looks like its a crook drive. cheers for the help

taken from PCCG

**Please note: Windows XP users will need to download this free utility before using this drive due to the use of Advanced Format technology. Not required for Vista and Windows 7 users.

depending on the mobo, chipset etc - it wont be possible.

I've seen weird shit happen on older gen mobo's with IDE and SATA connected @ the same time.

Given price of a 1TB SATA drive (under $100), its easier just to buy one than deal with the issues sometimes.

+1

I had an old ECS 865 mobo (socket 478 for Pentium 4 with 2 IDE connectors & 2 SATAs) which would not boot up properly to my OS from my PATA drive (OS drive) when I had the 2 SATA HDDs connected. Did a reformat & installed my OS to one of the SATA, while still keeping the PATA HDD & it was all back to normal again... strange

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...