Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gtr32_shaun05b.jpg

Hi Guys,

I have a White R32 GTR for sale.

I am the only owner this car has had in Australia since it's purchase in September last year. When I bought the car it was in completely standard and original condition. It has always been garaged and I have always taken great care of her.

I have full reciepts for all the parts and servicing.

It also has FULL 12 MONTHS REGO.

Details:

10/92 Build.

White in colour.

75,000 k's.

Serviced every 5,000k's using full synthetic oil.

Just had Front Diff, Rear Diff, Gearbox and Transfer case fluids changed and also had the 4WD system bled.

Mods:

Koni adjustable shocks (1 week old)

Eibach Springs (1 week old)

Trust MX front pipes (1 month old).

Hi Flow 3" cat (1 month old).

HKS Hiper cat back exhaust (brand new).

HKS Cam Gears (1 month old).

Trust Airinx Filter Kit.

Trust Alloy Gear knob.

Trust Alloy Oil Filler Cap.

Trust Alloy Radiator Cap.

Trust White Faced Boost Gauge.

Ultra Turbo Timer.

Exxedy Deiken Heavy Duty 3 Puck Single Plate Clutch (8 months old).

EBC Green Stuff Front pads (3 months old).

EBC Brake Fluid - Full Flush (3 months old).

New Front Bushes.

I still have all the original parts including Exhaust, Airbox etc. and would consider selling it in standard form if necessary. If bought as is you will get all the standard parts too.

I am looking for offers around $34,500 as is or $31,500 stock.

Thanks,

Shaun.

0411 753 501

[email protected] Nightime home email

[email protected] Daytime work email

gtr32_shaun07b.jpg

gtr32_shaun06b.jpg

gtr32_shaun12b.jpg

gtr32_shaun10b.jpg

gtr32_shaun09b.jpg

gtr32_shaun04b.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3635-white-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

After you have undone 10 allen bolts to get that cover off (including two unreachable ones near the firewall) you won't be in a big hurry to get it back on.

Also people think you are running some CDI ignition or something if you leave it off like the big HP Jap drag cars.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3635-white-r32-gtr/#findComment-60547
Share on other sites

Their are two reasons why I took the centre cover of the engine.

1) It actually does assist in keeping everything in that area cooler. A large amount of heat can build up under their and I have heard stories of GTR's on the track damaging ignition components from excess heat.

2) I like the look of the engine better with it off. It gives it a more "i mean business" look.

Thanks,

Shaun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3635-white-r32-gtr/#findComment-60566
Share on other sites

By By,

Yes, I am waiting for my new motor to arrive. I think it will be a few weeks by the time it comes in and gets fitted.

I have not thought about selling it with a bare engine bay. I guess with no motor at all I would sell the car for some where around the $26,000 mark.

Thanks,

Shaun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3635-white-r32-gtr/#findComment-60621
Share on other sites

Hey Ethan,

$34,500 is my starting price for the car with the new engine and all the mods, you get everything. Plus I will also give you all the standard parts for the car too.

If you are interested just get in touch with me and we can negotiate the price.

Thanks,

Shaun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3635-white-r32-gtr/#findComment-60642
Share on other sites

Here's something for people to think about......

$32,500 as it is with all the parts and accessories.

$29,500 completely returned to stock.

$27,500 as it is with all the parts BUT no motor.

$24,500 completely stock BUT no motor.

Thanks,

Shaun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3635-white-r32-gtr/#findComment-63071
Share on other sites

Shaun, man that is a VERY tempting deal. I know that as soon as I get the money for selling my car I will be ringing you.

Are the prices firm or a little negotiable (not that they arent great prices anyway)

And could you please give me some more details on the car. Like how you have got it in so good nick. It looks like maybe a new paint job, and what you did to the engine bay, interior etc. Just the little odds and ends you have done if you know what I mean?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3635-white-r32-gtr/#findComment-63432
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...