Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you are going to need to give alot more information than this for people to help you. Tho based on the fact you cant ascertain if it has a clutch/ thermo fan then id say you need to be taking this to a mechanic.

N going on your post statement "fear... is a great motivatior"- here it is for you. Overheating a car = a rebuild. If yours is doing this n getting that boiling sound then you are either very close or already there. Get it to a mechanic (on the back of a tow truck would be my recommendation...)

still same problem jus topped up fluid took for a warmup lap and still same problem only slight bubbling this time. left to cool and checked for oil in fluid. nothing. its clean. wtf is going on i dont know

The stink of coolant inside that cabin, combined with the green squelchy carpets is usually a much more efficient indicator of a leaking heater core, than a bubbling sound....

Just because the big fan is turning doesnt mean the clutch is fine too - They have what is reffered to as a viscous hub, and can be shagged but still LOOK like its working. Give it a spin by hand and see if you can feel any resistance. If it spins freely, the chances are its stuffed.

i had the same issue wit my 33

it overheated pretty bad couldnt run for more than 15 mins without overheating, when it did, the coolant from radiator went into the reservoir and was bubbling/boiling

the radiator fan was still running but the problem was the viscus

fixed with a second hand radiator only cost $120

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...