Jump to content
SAU Community

Info Required


Buck R
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all. I have a 1999 Black Stagea rs four s series 2 manual with the NEO 6 engine. Has been great for the last 5 years. I have just started having a problem with the engine check light coming on.

I had it checked out and the O2 sensor was replaced. Now the light only comes on just after the auto chock cuts off. If I stop and restart the engine the light does not come back on. Has anyone had

similar problems and if so what was the fix ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 2000 RS4 Tiptronic that recently had a similar fault at idle and sometimes whilst driving, the engine would noticeably miss and at the same time the engine check light would come on; this progressed over a two week period and eventually it would do it around the same period of time as you describe. I had two different mechanics run their scanner on the diagnostic port and they both came up with the same fault which from memory was "Primary ignition circuit" in other words the coil packs were breaking down. This may or may not be related to your problem but it seemed to be heat related as when the "choke" cut off i.e. the engine had warmed up, the coil packs played up.I replaced the coil packs with Splitfires from JustJap and the spark plugs while I was in there and haven't had a problem since. The coil packs are a known problem with these engines. good luck, keep us posted.

Regards Craig

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...