Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Speakers


LotusGTR
 Share

Recommended Posts

I need to buy some speakers for my GTR. 2 for the rear parcel shelf and 2 for the front doors. I'm not interested in top end stuff and just want something that is basic and will do a half decent job without being shitty. It's important that they just fit into the existing holes and under the covers. I'm pretty sure the existing ones are the stock items or at least like for like replacements for the OEM ones.

Anyone make a recommendation or point in the direction of something suitable that it second hand. I've had a bit of a search and couldn't find anything but must admit I didn't try tooooo hard.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I'm looking for 6x4 front spreakers and this is a photo of the cavity where they need to go into. A couple of questions:

I've seen mention of coaxial speakers. I know what coax cable looks like for TVs, but what does this mean for car speakers and are they compatible with the wiring in the photo from my car (sorry for crap photo)?

Can anyone advise what the standard rear speaker size is for an R32 GTR?

Thanks.

Aaron, I've not forgotten you. Prob give you a call today.

EDIT I've also attached pics of the existing speakers for what it's worth.

post-46395-0-68509600-1305665944_thumb.jpg

post-46395-0-22145700-1305667170_thumb.jpg

post-46395-0-93664900-1305667203_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

coax just means the tweeter and speaker are one.... and there is an in built crossover.

it would hook up to your stock wiring, but if your head unit puts 30w to them and the speakers are 50w they'll sound like ass.. and possibly blow if you up the volume...

let me know if you need a hand?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Standard rear size is 17cm or 6.5" , should fit , the depth of the rubber lip on the top edge is important as well , as it will rub against the parcel shelf underneath ..

I took the old one out first and bought something similar - Polk Audio , mid priced great quality !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Bugger! just realised you were (NZ) based after reading your thread again and seeing the number plate.. good luck with your move!
    • Could've sold you my brand new 1000cc xpurts, 350z pedal and r35 coils..  Well maybe you need some other bits I can offload. Anyway car looks pretty tidy and and should go well with these "subtle" mods.
    • As an extension of that thought, if you do not also have adjustable front radius/traction arms, and if you have not had them properly** set up at the same time as any adjustments to the uppers (when camber is being set) then you  will likely have an excessive amount of bump steer and the rear end will actually be worse off. **I built a bump steer measuring setup with a laser, mirror, etc and spent.....a whole day, and most of another day, getting both sides of my car to minimum bump steer. (Was a slow effort because I was designing/building the rig as I went, to start with). Then I had the rear camber adjusted a little at the next proper wheel alignment and had to set the bump steer rig up again to dial out the increased bump steer that it caused. Car's rear end behaviour was substantially nicer afterwards. To get that done by a specialist would be.....near impossible in most places. Almost no chassis/wheel align shops would be willing to put up with the f**king around. And the fee would be horrendous. Racers and shops that cater pretty much only to racers would probably be set up to do it and do it reasonably efficiently, but it would still cost many hundreds of $$. My time should be worth even more than that, but fuddling about with the car is also therapy, so meh.
    • So about 10 years ago, i bought a brand new Greddy FFP (a legit one), which i have always wanted to put on. Now i know there is no real performance gain, however i have always been a fan of how much it simplifies the engine bay and makes servicing that much easier. The reason i never got round to installing it is that it just seemed more trouble than its worth for basically a stock car.. All mods to date are more suspension/handling/drivetrain, so today i made the decision to start with the more serious (and expensive) part of the mods, the engine hardware.. Today i purchased: Xspurt 1000cc injectors (1/2 height) EFI Hardware fuel rail GFB FX-R fuel pressure regulator necessary fittings to direct mount regulator to rail NZ Wiring trigger kit 82mm Bosch DBW throttle body Taarks 82mm DBW to 3" hose clamp adaptor Outsider Garage 350z pedal kit Franklin Performance R35 GTR coil kit There is still a bit of time before this will make its way into the car, as i want to have a complete cold side assembly, with a sub-harness all good to go. As a note, i have heard the the 82mm Bosch DBW throttle unit is basically a direct bolt on with some very slight mods to the plenum, so will be testing this out.
    • Awesome, thanks for your help👍👍
×
×
  • Create New...