Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all im bout to buy a "hybrid" fmic 600x300x76. dose ne 1 know roughly what kind of price i will be looking at to get the piping made up for this? or has ne 1 had good bad experiances in adelaide with this?

also wanting to know what kind of boost increase i can do with the front mount, and what kind of power gains i will get?

i have a 1993 r32 gts-t m-spec with cat back exhaust and HKS pod. the boost is @ 12psi atm.

thanx guys.

a few guys on the site have got the hybrid coolers on their car and getting around the 170rwkw mark or more. with good tuning and full exhaust. with the stock turbo i wouldn't go past the 12psi for everyday driving, 14psi if you going down the strip. its the heat of the turbine blade spinning to fast where it actually mealts and stuffs up so. yeah. good luck with the cooler. on ebay you can get them for about 550.

i run 1 bar (14psi) of boost with cooler, exhurst, electronic boost controller...no idea about how much wk's its making...will take it to get dyno'd soon

OH make sure your fuel is all good...cos alot of those GTST fuel pumps are stuffed/ near stuffed. So when u boost it to 14psi on the dyno get them to check the fuel out.

you can pick up a hybrid 600x300x75mm for $700ish from justjap a sponser of this forum, www.powerdigger.com were selling the hybrid gts-t piping kit for $450ish or rolin imports (as you mentioned) here in Qld can get the same piping kit for around $600!!

you can pick up a hybrid 600x300x75mm for $700ish from justjap a sponser of this forum, www.powerdigger.com were selling the hybrid gts-t piping kit for $450ish or rolin imports (as you mentioned) here in Qld can get the same piping kit for around $600!!

Mate get it from the intercooler guy, he makes up the best looking best performing kits around for good $$ i just got mine yesterday and its the best ive seen, he is the most helpfun bloke i have met in the industry and will help you out with anything. 10 out of 10 for him, rollin is a bit overpriced but i got my rb20det half cut from them for ok price $2200

whos doin your piping bro?

and what kind of piping and for what car .. because im looking to get piping done too

ashmore exhaust at miami is the place, also the only place who quoted less that $800, all up $450 for all pipes, cutting body work, bends, hoses, clamps and labour, the car is in my avatar the engine is a silver top rb20det so had to go custome piping! the work is great and they even remounted the pod filter to a better spot using a bit of 3" piping!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As I've said elsewhere, I am using the stock intercooler piping path in the engine bay, and a return flow cooler, and making ~250 rwkW (without any effort put into trying to turn it up past there just yet) and expect to be able to make some more, and frankly, I would be perfectly happy with 260-270rwKW. This is peak road Skyline usability territory. You go past there and, sure, the car will snap necks more when it's on boost, but it will also break shit all the time, cost a (even larger) fortune in tyres, etc etc. Anyway, I also do not like the over-the-fan pipe path, and you don't have to do it.
    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
    • Short inlet runners cost quite a bit. Dulls off the off-boost torque, and delays boost onset, because arrival of boost is driven by gas flow is a product of the ability to flow air which is torque. This is the reason that the stock manifolds have longer runners. On a 3L, or bigger, you can usually accept the compromise of giving away some torque because the extra capacity gives you a little extra to waste. But on a smaller motor, there's not a lot there to start with. Example, I swapped RB20 out of my R32, 25NeoDET in its place. The "wall of torque" that I experienced afterwards made it all worthwhile. That's because I came from RB20 land where torque is not a thing. But I would not do anything, anything at all, to reduce the low/mid torque I have now, because I remember what it is like to not have it!
×
×
  • Create New...