Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Always garaged and serviced only by Unigroup Engineering. Has only ever had BP Ultimate for a drink and Motul oils in the 3 years I've had it (first Australian owner). Makes about 195rwkw on 11 PSI. Stock engine internals incl. turbo but was tuned by Toshi using stock ecu and daughterboard.

ENGINE:

- Stock engine / turbo with genuine 89,000 Kms.

- New NISSAN Timing belt and NSK timing / tensioner bearings and Nissan water pump changed a few months ago by Unigroup

- 40mm dual core aluminium radiator

- new fan clutch

- Splitfire Coilpacks

- stock airbox with high performance filter

- brand new battery purchased 2 months ago

INTERIOR:

- all seats reupholstered with creme coloured leatherette with NISMO embroidery. Centre console and door inserts matching.

- grey factory carpets removed and replaced with jet black carpets throughout

- genuine NISMO mats front & back

- all upholstering work done professionally

- RaceTech gauges (blue leds) replacing the old factory ones for Voltage, Boost (PSI) and Water Temperature

- GTR dash insert (charcoal)

- dash cluster lights replaced with blue LEDs (matching the stereo and triple-gauges)

AUDIO

- front speakers and tweeters installed by FHRX studios

- Dynamat in front doors

- Active ported sub in the boot (120Watts from memory) strappped down securely and can be removed easily to free up space.

- Kenwood CD headunit with USB input

EXTERIOR

- NISMO rear bar (not to be confused with the common Nissan Altia bar)

- IMPUL side skirts

- factory front bar for practicality

- 20% tinting all around

- LED tail lights (custom design)

- LED boot lid lights

- genuine XENON Hid lights (factory option) 3-way adjustable and HID parkers + NISMO eyelids

- genuine NISMO front and side blinkers (charcoal/smoked)

WHEELS AND BRAKES

- 18 x 8.5" DTM wheels (charcoal with polished lip)

- Maxxis flagship directional performance tyres - plenty of meat left

- RDA slotted rotors

- QFM HPX brake pads

- wheels have some typical gutter rash (quoted $200 to fix)

SUSPENSION

- Bilstein (german made) suspension installed by HEASMANS with circlip grooves for height adjustability

- Whiteline heavy duty sway bars

- Whiteline springs (firm enough to provide good handling but not over the top)

- new bump stops and all new bushes (Whiteline)

- 4 wheel alignment done for performance handling

EXHAUST

- free flowing turbo-back system incl.

- JustJap dump pipe

- highflow cat

- HKS Silent Power Cat-Back 3.5" sys

Price is $18,000 ONO.

No low ballers please and NO SWAPS. Plates come with the car (DR34PR aka "The Reaper") and cost $90 a year (RTA) or you can swap them for standard plates. Located in FIVE DOCK NSW (near M4 exit onto Paramatta Rd). Got the cash / finance approval ? Call me 0413 337 146. No test pilots - no one gets in the driver seat without a $1,000 security deposit and signed waiver.

post-49910-0-39492100-1305442598_thumb.jpgpost-49910-0-26764900-1305442768_thumb.jpgpost-49910-0-82730300-1305442779_thumb.jpgpost-49910-0-36459500-1305442883_thumb.jpgpost-49910-0-58969000-1305442896_thumb.jpgpost-49910-0-62617100-1305442689_thumb.jpgpost-49910-0-00723100-1305442716_thumb.jpgpost-49910-0-17950000-1305442743_thumb.jpg

post-49910-0-41652600-1305442659_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364331-syd-r34-gtt-black-manual/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...